Valley of Ubaye

The valley of Ubaye (in Occitan Ubaia , " Valéia" into of Provence-alpine) is located in the department Alp-of-High-Provence and counts approximately 7700 inhabitants, called " Ubayens" or " Valéians". The principal city of the valley is the Sous-préfecture of Barcelonnette.

Geography

Satellite sight of the Valley of Ubaye, by Google Map

the valley of Ubaye on Wikimapia

The valley of Ubaye is a glacial valley of origin; the Right Bank of the Ubaye is shone upon and cultivated (Adret), the left bank as for it is ombrée and forest (Ubac). Its altitude goes 771 meters low at the point of the commune of the Lauzet-Ubaye, up to 2655 meters with the source of the Ubaye. Its culminating top is the Aiguille of Chambeyron with 3412 meters of altitude. The valley of Ubaye as its dependences have an total surface area of 93.962 hectares.

Hydrography

The valley of Ubaye draws its name from the river éponyme which crosses it. The Ubaye is born with the Franco-Italian border, the Col of Longet, in the solid mass of the Mount Viso, and measures approximately 80 kilometers. It runs then the North-East in South-west to the commune of Jausiers, where it forks then towards the West until joining the Durance, on the level of the lake of Greenhouse-Ponçon. Its principal affluent is the Ubayette which takes its source in the Lac of Lauzanier. Its mode is nivo-rain with high waters at the end of spring and a recrudescence in autumn and low waters in summer and especially in winter.

Because of prevalence of movable rocks (Flysch S and marl S black) and strong slopes, the valley counts many permanent or occasional torrents. The principal permanent torrent are the torrent of Sagnes (also called torrent of Abriès), the Flat Ground torrent, Riou Bourdoux and the torrent of Abéous. With the cast iron of snows or at the time of the estival storms, the torrents like that of Falcon or Sanières take life, causing extensive damage sometimes: the roadway of D900 was strongly damaged a few years ago lasting of a storm by the torrent of Falcon. Before the 19th century, one counted several tens of torrents of this kind, when the valley was deforested, which caused each summer of the floods or the landslides. Thus, at the 18th century, one of these occasional rivers caused an important landslide in High-Valley, so much so that Ubaye was blocked by a natural stopping, threatening Jausiers of a mini-tsunami which fortunately did not take place. Since the valley was retimbered, and it risk became tiny even if there still exists.

The valley counts a certain number of lakes, unquestionable artificial (water level of Jausiers or retained Pra Loup), the other natural ones among which:

  • lake of Flat Ground (in the west of the Jausiers-Restefond road, other with dimensions of the watershed, on the level of the small valley of Worse)
  • lake of New the Colors (Massive of Chambeyron)
  • lake of Sagnes (with the foot of the Tower of Sagnes)
  • Lake of Lauzanier (source of the Ubayette)
  • lake of Small Cayolle
  • lake of the Men, close to Lauzanier.
  • lake of Longet, source of Ubaye, close to the Italian border
  • lake of Oronaye, close to Longet
  • lake of the Lauzet-Ubaye, entered of the valley
  • Lakes Marinet (with the foot of the Needle of Chambeyron)

Climate

Climate of mountain but with Mediterranean influences, with approximately 300 days of sun per annum. The winter is cold in bottom of valley (average of 0°C with Barcelonnette in January), more pleasant on the villages and stations of the slopes, while the summer is hot and stormy.

Organization

  • the valley of Ubaye is not linear, but account several junctions:
    • Its " tronc" goes from Is in West of the Lauzet-Ubaye with Jausiers on approximately 27 km (slightly curved towards the South), then goes up between Jausiers and the source towards the North-East, on approximately 35 km
    • Between Lauzet and Méolans-Revel, a " branche" leaves towards the south: the small valley of the Laverq.
    • On the level of Barcelonnette, one second, always towards the south: the valley of Bachelard, with common D Uvernet-Furnaces. This branch is still divided into two: towards the South and the Collar of Allos, and towards the East in the Throats of Bachelard themselves, which makes then an elbow towards the south towards the Col of Cayolle.
    • Then towards Jausiers, it is divided into two: a " branche" towards the South, and the Collar of the Cap and worms Is and the small valley of Sagnes
    • Shortly after Condamine-Châtelard, a new junction towards the East: the small valley of Ubayette, towards Larche and the Italy.

  • Traditionally, one divides also the valley into three: the Low-Valley of Lauzet with Barcelonnette (771 to 1150 meters), the Average-Valley of the Barcelonnette to Jausiers (in the neighborhoods of 1200/1300 meters), then the High-Valley until the source (of 1200 in Jausiers up to 2650 meters with the source).

Situation

The valley (called familiarly Valéia by its inhabitants) is located at the Eastern end of the Alp-of-High-Provence. It is located between the Hautes-Alpes at North, the the Alpes-Maritimes in the south and the Italy in the East.

Historically, it marks also the limit between the Dauphiné and the Provence, by belonging to the latter.

Summits

The valley of Ubaye is encircled by high summits which often exceed the 3000 meters, the culminating point of the valley is the Aiguille of Chambeyron to 3412 meters of altitude, on the commune of Saint-Paul-on-Ubaye, in the North-East of the valley.

In addition, other high summits exceeding the 3000 meters are the Brec de Chambeyron (3 389 m), the Pics of Make Sancte (3 385 m), the Grand Bérard (3 046 m), the Head of Siguret (3032 m). The Cocked hat, the Large Séolane and the Sugar loaf, in the south of Barcelonnette, are high months but are however emblematic valley

The two more important solid masses of Ubaye are the Massif of Chambeyron and that of the Parpailllon.

Cities

Oldest are:

    • Falcon-with-Barcelonnette,
    • Saint-Pons

Access

The valley counts only 6 accesses suitable for motor vehicles:

One can in addition join Embrun by the Col of Parpaillon on a way not gourdonné.

Moreover, the valley has a small aerodrome open to the private flights: the Airport of Barcelonnette - Saint-Pons.

Fauna

The valley of Ubaye is populated of a traditional alpine fauna: Marmot S, Chamois, Fox S, birds various (Grouse S, Chocard, crow S, corbel), various raptors (of which some couples of golden eagles, and very rare gypaètes bearded).

The Chamois are many and present on all the high peaks of the valley. They are however very difficult to observe. A place accessible to all where one can see them more easily finds in Bachelard, in the south of the valley. It is a small valley with the northern foot of the Mont Pelat, on the road of the collar of Cayolle.

The Marmotte S are they also present, but in the high mountain pastures. The most favourable place to observe them is the small valley of Lauzanier, close to the source of the Ubayette, along the Italian border. The access is easy and the many and not very savage marmots.

Ibex S and Mouflon S live in the High-Valley, like in the solid mass of the Séolanes and the Sugar loaf

Moreover, traces of passages of the wolf were found, and certain guides of high-mountain saw some. December 30th, 2005, a young wolf was found died on the road close to Meyronnes, reversed by a car. One knows that two packs are installed close to the valley of Ubaye, that of Bachelard and that of High the Tinée. However, it seems that a new pack is established in the High Valley, in the Massif of Parpaillon, close to Saint-Paul-on-Ubaye

At the domestic level, many are the sheep in the mountain pastures, and the cows in the low meadows.

Flora

Typical alpine vegetation. There are large forests of Sapin S, Mélèze S, spruces; in particular the " Large Bois" , large forest of coniferous tree in the small valley of Sagnes. At the floral level, one finds Rhododendron, Saxifrage, Aulne, buttercup of the glaciers and Joubarde d' Allioni.

Geology

Gastronomy

The valley being with the confluence enters the Provence, the Dauphiné and the Italy, the local kitchen Marie the alpine, Mediterranean and Italian influences.

Some spécialitées local: the Liquor of Génépi, the Jausiereine and the Volume of Ubaye.

History

See also: History of the valley of Ubaye

The valley was inhabited as of the end of the Préhistoire as testify some the very many vestiges discovered a little everywhere. During the Antiquity, the tribe Celto-Ligurian of the Esubiens populated the valley.

The latter was attached to the Roman Empire by Auguste and belonged to the small province of the the Alps Cottiennes. A Roman way crossed the valley, named then “ Vallis will nigra ”. The Romans occupied the site of Falcon, and also probably the fortified position of Tournoux, which is used since prehistory until Maginot. Moreover, the site would draw its name from certain Turnus, officer Roman. Esubiens were romanisés and their civilization disappeared. Little by little, the valley of Ubaye lost part of its population and turned over partially at the wild state.

Christianized at the end of the Roman epoch, the valley depended on évéché on Embrun. The valley is attached to the county of Provence during all the Moyen-âge. Its chief town, Barcelonnette, were founded in 1231 by Raimond-Berenger IV of Barcelona, count of Barcelona. Before this date, the " capitale" valley was Saint-Pons. In 1388, the valley was annexed to the Duché of Savoy. François Ier] borrowed the Col of Larche to go to attack the Italy.

The valley of Ubaye was attached to France in 1713 by the treaty of Utrecht thanks to the marshal of Berwick, conscious of its stategic importance, exchanged with the duke of Savoy Victor-Amédée III become king of Piedmont-Sardinia against several territories Piedmontese. She then asks her fastening Provence, because she had belonged to the county of Provence several front centuries, and for economic reasons (the valley of Ubaye being turned commercially more towards Provence than towards Dauphinée). On royal decision, the valley is thus attached to Provence and not to Dauphinée (as the Parliament from the Dauphine wished it). During the Revolution, the valley was one of the bases of the Army of the Alps.

In the years 1830, the first motor-road is opened, disenclosing the valley: N100. It became D900 in 1973. With 19th and 20th century, following the Brothers Arnaud started from Jausiers, part of Ubayens emigrate with the Mexico to make fortune. A small community ubayenne established over there, controlling a share of Mexican textile industry. A part of them will return, certain very rich (which will be made build beautiful the " villas mexicaines"). Of other remained in Mexico, where one finds today more than 50.000 of their descendants. This movement was intitié in 1805 by Jacques Arnaud, one of the famous Frères Arnaud of Jausiers, which left in Louisiana, and founded the town of Arnaudville. As of 1821, the Arnaud brothers left to Mexico.

Ubaye is occupied by the Italians in 1942 then by the Germans in 1943 and 1944 (and even 1945 for part of High-Ubaye)

A valley with military vocation

Prehistory with the 21e century, the valley of Ubaye very often had a military vocation, more or less marked according to the times. Indeed, it has an important geographical position: crossroads between the Italy in the east, the High-Provence in the west, the Embrunais and the Queyras in north, the Verdon and Tinée in the south. It is thus a way of passage, which is militarily interesting to have. The dispute between the Ésubiens and the Romains under the Republic is the oldest trace of the strategic position of the valley, just as the legend of the passage of Hannibal by the Col of Larche. Although it is almost sure today that Hannibal did not borrow the collar of Larche, this last, thanks to its relative low altitude compared to the other frontier collars (1991 meters, which leaves it sometimes open until late in the year in the event of weak snowing up), in fact a point of passage privileged for an army wanting to go to Italy (or France by the opposite way) and eager to avoid the way of the coast niçoise, or then the more famous collars of the Alps of North. It is as that which François Ier could surprise his enemies in 1515.

In 1713 takes place a capital event for the valley of Ubaye: its official fastening with the kingdom of France, always because of this strategic position. A few years before, Vauban had made build in the High-Valley famous Redoute known as of Berwick, a small fortress, which is re-used with XIXe and XXe century like ammunition dump.

Under the Revolution, to 10.000 men of the Army of the Alps were stationed in the valley, to lock the collar of Larche and the austro-Piedmontese armies. This military vocation disappears at the time of the First Empire, Napoleon having attached the Piedmont to France. But it returned at the time of the Napoleonean defeat.

It is in the years 1830, under the impulse of the general Haxo, that the fortification in mass of the valley of Ubaye was undertaken, with the construction of the Fort of Tournoux, the " Military Versaille of the XIXe siècle". After the death of Haxo, Séré de Rivières was its continuator. Completion of Tournoux, extremely of Cuguret, barracks of Jausiers, barracks of Restefond, military Observatory of Siguret, other works of less importances: at the end of the XIXe century, the valley has only little to fear of an Italian invasion.

In the years 1930, one century after Haxo, another builder marked the valley: Andre Maginot. The forts Séré de Rivières having become vulnerable with progress of artillery, of the fortresses out of reinforced concrete, often buried, were built. It was the powerful strong one of Rock-the-Cross, a " submarine terrestre" , bolt of the small valley of Larche, with the other works of High Saint-Bear. Then new extremely in Restefond. More some small additional works, like the small concreted trenches of Sagnes. These effort bore their fruits. In 1940, thanks to the Line Maginot of the Alps, the Swiss border with Nice while passing by Ubaye, 100  000 French Alpine hunters resisted the attack of 600  victoriously; 000 Italian soldiers. Only some minor territories had been lost, and the crossroads ubayen was always French. In 1939 also settled in the valley the 11th battalion of Alpine hunters, which in spite of the rout of 40 was illustrated brilliantly in the north of France.

Unfortunately, in spite of the French victory in the Alps, Italy in 1942 and Germany in 1943/1945 occupied Ubaye and especially its forts. In 1945, engagements took place between the French having begun again Tournoux, vis-a-vis the Germans cut off in the " under-marin" Rock-the-Cross. Once more, the Highone had known the engagements.

After the war, 11th BCA remained in the valley (except the bracket of the Guerre of Algeria) and the fort were demilitarized, given up.

Today, certain forts, like that of Tournoux, are visited. Others, as that of Cuguret belong to private individuals. The 11th BCA was dissolves and the abandoned barracks of Jausiers. But however, even if the " large époque" of " Ubaye militaire" between 1830 and 1945 is finished, all did not disappear. Today, CIECM (Center of Instruction and Drive to the Combat in Mountain) is based with Barcelonnette.

Administration

The Valley belongs to the Arrondissement of Barcelonnette, and counts two cantons: that of Barcelonnette and that of Lauzet-Ubaye.

Demography

  • At the time of its annexation by the France in 1713 (Treated of Utrecht), the valley of Ubaye counted approximately 18.000 inhabitants. After various censuses and estimates, one had:
    • 1783 : 16.425 inhabitants
    • 1878: 13.603 inhabitants
    • 1896: 13.200 inhabitants
    • 1926: 9.521 inhabitants
    • 1931: 9.271 inhabitants
    • 2006: 7.569 inhabitants

Economy

Before the 20th century, the independent source of income of the valley being the textile sector, in particular the wool and silk. Hawkers were going to sell the product ubayens in all Provence, and sometimes even in all Western Europe for most intrepid. Agriculture was primarily of subsistence.

Today, the valley saw primarily tourism, whether it is winter or estival. The product sales of the soil are, it also, important.

Places and monuments

Natural sites

  • the lakes (enumerated at the beginning of the article)
  • solid masses:
    • the Massive of Chambeyron: Needle of Chambeyron (3412m), the Brec de Chambeyron (3389m),…
    • the Massive of Massive Parpaillon
    • of Séolanes
  • Other mounts: Large Séolane, Siguret (3032m), the Head of Louis XVI, Large Bérard, Sugar loaf, etc
  • the Mercantour

Monuments

The valley of Ubaye counts many monuments, of which most remarkable are:

Personalities

See too

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