Iduridu herriak cenbeit erreguina,
Ohe guri batean loriaz etzana
This borough resembles some queen allongée
on a marrowy bed of flowers.
(J.M. Hiribarren)
Ustaritz is a common French, located in the department of the Yrénées-Atlantiques and the area Aquitaine. Old capital of the province of the Labourd, Ustaritz belongs to the Basque Country French.
Its Basque name is Uztaritze , of old a Uztarritz (A), a name similar to Uztarroze which one can translate by uztarr-itz “field of the pile” (rather than “of the yoke”). It is not necessary to see there a “harvest ( uzta ) of oaks ( haritz )”. According to Michel Duhart the word would mean field of Ustar .
The inhabitants are the Uztariztars .
Geography
Ustaritz is located between
Bayonne (at 13 km) and
Cambo-the-Baths (7 km) on the road built at the request of Napoleon, driving of Bayonne with
Hasparren while following the course of Nive.
The city is crossed by the Nive, celebrates river of the '' holidays of small Nicolas '', and affluent of the Adour to Bayonne. Its grounds are also sprinkled by the Uhabia, small river coastal which is thrown in the ocean with Bidart.
Nature of the landscapes
Imagines the freshest valley, more laughing and most fertile, cut in the medium by a navigable river whose always blue water reflects the azure of the most beautiful sky, framed by covered hills of vines and wood, and by part of the chain of the Pyrenees. wrote at the beginning of the XIXe century
Dominique Joseph Garat.
Typology of the occupation of the ground
The activity of the commune is in great agricultural share. The forest covers 900 of the 3.275 ha which constitute the territory of the commune.
Communes bordering
Transportation routes
; By road
Ustaritz is located on the road secondary D932, between Bayonne and Cambo-the-Baths, with the crossings with D137 and D250 and accessible starting from the exit Bayonne-South from the highway A63 (9 km).
Two bridges cross Nive, one in direction of Villefranque (D137) and the other in direction of Jatxou (D250)
; Public transport
The city is connected daily to Bayonne and Cambo-the-Baths by the rail network of the SNCF (FOR THE THIRD TIME) and by coach (company Miral/Larronde).
; Ways pedestrians
Ustaritz is connected to Bayonne by the tow path skirting Nive. In the past used for the river transport of the goods, this way of 15 km is now reserved to the velocyclists and to the walkers.
Districts
The city presents the following districts:
- Arrauntz in direction of Bayonne. This district presents the image of a typical Basque village, with its church and its pediment. One also finds there the House labourdine (house-museum Elizalderena 1696), a press with apples (bereterraenea) dating from the XVIIe century.
- the borough (or Borough-Suzon) - Purgoina - old working presenting of the houses of XVIe and XVIIe centuries in the street Ferrondoa, the town hall, high historical place of Labourd, the center Lapurdi (administrative center and tourist bureau) and the Lota castles of the XIXe century.
- Herauritz , along Nive, decorated castles - Larreguienea (XVIIe) and Haltya (XIXe) - the castle Arkia (19th century) of a vault (Holy Catherine) of moyenâgeuse origin.
- Hiribehere (or Borough-Juzon), between the Borough in the south and Herauritz with the north, where are built the Arkia mill, and the Saint-Joseph college. Strong house " Sorhoeta" (13th century).
- Sokorrondo , Zokorrondo (of Zokor “mound”), in the North-East where the riding school opened Aitz Zaixpy
- Chopolo , Xopolo , in the east of the railway and in direction of Jatxou
- Saint-Michel , in the south in direction of Souraïde and Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle, which conceals the cemetery (steles discoïdales and monument Garat), the castle of Haitze (classified with the national heritage), the college Saint-François-Xavier (Art Déco).
- Forest of Ustaritz , Uztaritzeko Oihana , 650 ha, in south-west, on the road of Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle, forest, decorated district of a table of orientation and surfaces of picnic. Places-dits : Amestsia , Amestsi Handia , Apalaga , Hardoia , Larregi , Luxoki , Mindegitikia , Untzilarre . " The cross of Anglais" and " the vault Holy-Madeleine d' Otsantz" (in the course of rehabilitation) on a way of Saint-Jacob.
History
The name of Ustaritz (
Sanctus Vicentius d' Ustarits or
of Ustaridz ) appears since 1186 then in 1199 in the cartulaire of Bayonne. The Gascon roles of 1322 also mention the ville.
Ustaritz is the old capital of the
Labourd. It was the seat of the Viscount of Labourd, then of the Baillif, and finally meeting room of Biltzar before the Révolution.
Ustaritz changed its name for " Marat on Nive" a few years following the Revolution of 1789.
It was one of the first plains maïsicole of the Basque Country, and more largely of Europe. The first experimentation took place in 1523.
The capital of Labourd
The Viscount of Labourd was created in 1023 per Don Sanche the Large one, king of Navarre. The first Viscount of Labourd was Sanche 1er.
In 1152,
Aliénor of Aquitaine, while marrying with Henri II, brings the
Aquitaine to the crown of England at the time of the accession to the throne of this last (1155). This domination will last 3 centuries.
In 1167, then in 1174, several high Aquitanian lords raise themselves against the English takeover. Arnaud-Bertrand, Viscount of Labourd is these. Richard Lion-hearted (or Richard Ier of England), wire of Aliénor and Henri II, responsible by his father with the administration for Aquitaine as from 1170, must besiege
Bayonne in 1174 to strengthen the right of the
Plantagenêt on the area. It takes the city in 10 days. The Arnaud Viscount is constrained to take refuge with the castle of the Mound (site of the current town hall). He will remain there until 1193. Consequently, and until in 1790, Ustaritz becomes the capital of Labourd.
From 1193 to 1451, Ustaritz was moreover a residence of the Dukes of Aquitaine.
The Baillif
In 1193, Guillaume-Raymond de Sault, successor of Arnaud-Bertrand sell his rights on the Viscount of Labourd to king d' Angleterre for 3680 gold guilders. In 1235 Henri III can thus complete the project of Richard Ier to institute an permanent representative of the king near the local government. This load of baillif, installed in Ustaritz, will become for life as from 1337 (Auger de Sault), then hereditary sour the domination of kings de France (as from the 15th century).
Biltzar is the meeting of the mayor-abbots (
baldam-apheza ) of each of the 35 parishes labourdines, indicated in each one of them among the frank hosts (i.e. not depending on another house), which managed the communal businesses (generally Sunday after the mass in places nowadays still named
Kapitaleku , in cemeteries or as in Ustaritz around the
Kapito-harri (stone of the council)). Biltzar met in the castle of the Mound with Ustaritz. The nobility and the clergy were excluded from it.
The oldest official report of the biltzar of Ustaritz dated January 24th, 1567, and gives an account of the deliberations of the assembly chaired by Micheau de Sossiondo, lieutenant general of the Bailliage of Labourd.
Biltzar held its last session on November 18th, 1789. The minutes give a report on the request to the National Assembly lately made up, resulting from the General states, the maintenance of the current constitution (...) or at least of the creation of a department joining together the three French Basque provinces.
The court of Ustaritz existed for a very long time, almost treating all the important lawsuits of Labourd. Gold the book of the cathedral of Bayonne (or cartulaire on mandate of Henri IV. In July 1611, three fugitive of Ustaritz was stopped by the Inquisition of Logroño, on denunciation of a child of the family of Gorraiz of Ustaritz also.
The Garat brothers
The family of the brothers Garat Hiriarte (appointed with the General states) is resulting from the middle-class of the commune, the father was doctor there. The elder one, Dominique, born in Ustaritz in 1735 was appointed with the
constituent Assembly and mayor of Ustaritz between 1796 and 1799.
The junior, Joseph Dominique, born with
Bayonne in 1749, was Minister for the Justice of the
Convention (to replace Danton - It lute its sentence of died in Louis XVI), successor of Roland of the Water-splash to the ministry for the Interior in 1793, then senator and count of the Empire.
On the pediment of the funerary vault where it rests, in the Saint-Michel district, one can read:
Ci-to lie, the count Joseph Dominique Garat, born on December 9th, 1749, member of the French Academy in the high positions of the State it served its Fatherland by its talents and its example. Advisable by the noble simplicity of its manners, he cherished, like his family, the Basques, his compatriots. His wife and her son prohibit any praise of her eminent qualities which it covered with the veil of modesty during his long but too short career. That it rests in eternity.
Marat-on-Nive
The law of March 4th, 1790, which determined a new administrative landscape of France by creating departments and districts, decided birth of the department of the the Low-Pyrenees by joining together the
Béarn, the Gascon grounds
of
Bayonne and
Bidache, and the three French Basque provinces. For these last, three districts were created: Mauléon, Saint-Palate and Ustaritz, which replaced the baillage of Labourd.
The district of Ustaritz was composed of the cantons of
Bardos,
Biarritz, Cambo,
Espelette,
Hasparren,
Macaye,
Mouguerre,
Sare, Saint-Jean-with-Luz,
Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle,
Urrugne, Ustaritz and
Bayonne.
The canton of Ustaritz as for him was consisted of the communes of
Arbonne,
Jatxou, Ustaritz and Villefranque.
By abuse of power of the local leaders, the head office of Ustaritz was transferred almost immediately to
Bayonne. Its Directory encouraged a great number of municipalities to adopt new names in conformity with the spirit of the Révolution. Thus Ustaritz became
Marat-on-Nive ,
Itxassou was called
Union ,
Arbonne Constante , Saint-Etienne-with-Baïgorry
Thermopyles , Saint-Palate
Mount-Bidouze ,
Saint-Jean-Foot-of-Port Nive-Frank ,
Louhossoa Mountain-on-Nive , Saint-Jean-with-Luz
Chauvinistic-Dragon ,
Ainhoa Mendiarte and
Souraïde Mendialde .
Napoleonean wars
In 1813, Ustaritz was occupied by the Portuguese troops, being opposed to the Napoleonean troops. The occupation proceeded without exaction.
Other famous characters
- ''' Martin Duhalde ''', born in Ustaritz in 1733 and died in Bayonne in 1804, was a writer of Basque language.
- Leon Garat Hiriarte , born in Ustaritz after 1750, it is the least known of the three Garat brothers. He was lawyer at the bar of Bordeaux and Ustaritz, where its implication in the resolution of the legal problems of these compatriots was famous.
- Pierre-Nérée Dassance , born in Ustaritz the 22 floréal year IX (May 21st, 1801) in the district Borough-Suzon of Ustaritz (house Papiabeita ). After studies of theology in Paris (Saint-Sulpice), it was named in 1824 professor with the seminar of Larressore. Ordered priest in 1825, it made a long stay with the archbishop's palace of Paris. He refused évéché of Pamiers and returned in Ustaritz. In 1852, it was named Chanoine of the cathedral of Bayonne. It translates into French the imitation of Jesus-Christ whom it published in 1856. It published a translation out of Basque labourdin four Gospels , written by Haraneder, priest of Saint-Jean-with-Luz. He died on January 25th, 1858.
- Jean-Baptiste Darricarrère , philologist born in Ustaritz on January 24th, 1842. He considered that the Basque resulted from the languages indoeuropéennes. He impassioned himself for phonetics, the etymology and the orthography of the Basque. He began a dictionary Basque-French which he could not complete.
- ''' Louis Dassance ''', born in 1888 in Ustaritz. He was assistant of the mayor during 20 years, then mayor of Ustaritz during 20 other years (1939 - 1959). He was one of the founders of Gure Herria . He published there many articles like in Eskualduna Herria , the Bulletin of the Basque Museum and Gure Almanaka . Elected in 1926, and was during 33 years chair Eskualtzaleen Biltzarra . As from 1949, he was vice president of the National council for the defense of the Cultures and the regional Languages in Paris. He was named honorary president of the association of the teaching studies in 1957. He died in 1976.
- Eugene Goyheneche (1915-1989), born with Ustaritz, historian, impassioned palaeographer, graduate of the École of the charters, engaged Basque, known for his remarkable historical work on the Basque Country. He was devoted Honorary doctor University of the Basque Country and accepted the price Manuel Lekuona in 1989 for the whole of his work.
- Guy Laurendeau de Juniac is a sculptor and contemporary ceramist born in Ustaritz. Its work is characterized by a constant spiritual research.
Heraldic
Administration
Ustaritz is the chief town of the canton éponyme, which counts 9 communes and 19.192 inhabitants with the last census. Since 2001, Bernard Auroy, also mayor of Ustaritz, are general adviser of the canton.
The city is in a sector which does not comprise yet a community of communes. It belongs to several intercommunity associations of which most important are:
- the Mixed trade-union of studies for the development and the follow-up of SCOT of the agglomeration of Bayonne and Sud of the Moors;
- the Intercommunity association of maritime Nive;
- the Mixed trade-union of the contract of river of Nives whose seat is with the town hall of the commune;
- the Trade union for the support for the Basque culture whose seat is with the Lota Castle;
- Intercommunity association Nive-Bubble.
List mayors
See also: List of the former mayors of Ustaritz
Demography
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Between the censuses of 1990 and 1999, the average rate of variation of the population amounted to + 1,75% including - 0,15% due to the natural balance of the births and the deaths, and + 1,90% with the Migratory balance.
In 1999, the commune counted 1864 residences including 4,1% of second home.
Economy
Ustaritz was for a very long time an important center of activity of the Basque Country, and a node of economic exchanges with Spain and the Basque Country, departure of the road of the muleteers towards
Ainhoa, the Baztan and
Pampelune, resulting from a dynamic agricultural activity and its privileged situation of river port on the
Nive. Traders and legal profession constituted his middle-class with XVIIe and XVIIIe centuries.
- 1245: the cider is the principal production of the village
- 1523: Ustaritz tries out the first culture of corn in Europe
The common one belongs to the zone AOC of production of the Piment of Espelette.
; Statistical data
On the territory of the commune were listed at January 1st, 2004: 19 establishments related to industry, 62 with construction, 37 with the trade and repairs and 121 with the services. 14 of them counted 10 paid and more.
The activity is mainly directed towards agriculture (in 1979,1 243 ha were cultivated or with agricultural vocation - breeding)
With the census of 1999 to December 31st, 2004 show a number of rising applicants for work with 161
; Accounts 2005 of the commune
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Inheritance
Civil architectural heritage
-
pediments and trinquets
- the laundrettes (Hérauritz district and district of the Borough)
- the press with apples (XVIIe century)
- the cross of the English ( Harrisko Kurutzea ), in the forest which skirts D250. It carries the date of 1713, and was undoubtedly drawn up in memory of the English soldiers facts captive during the war of succession of Spain, in this place with the variation of the village, since the not-catholics could not be buried in the cemetery of the village.
- the cromlech of Kapito Harri, work of the sculptor Christiane Giraud: 9 drawn up stones and a engraved flagstone indicate with precision the positions of the sun to the rising and sleeping, at the time of the solstices and equinoxes. The 9th stone indicates the direction of the rising of the sun the day of the Saint Martin's day
; Basque traditional houses
Inter alia:
- House Mokopeita (district of the Borough), remains of André Trébuchet, painter of international repute, which resided at it since 1925
- Maison Chokolatenea (district of the Borough - 1694), remains of a chocolate seller
- Maisons of the street of Ferrondoa (district of the Borough - 1572), in the past street of the Magistrates.
- Chachoenea House, district Saint-Michel, going back to 1648
- House Haroztegia ( house of the blacksmith - district of the Borough): typical example of the house labourdine.
- Operena House, Saint-Michel district, which sheltered the English general Hope, in war against the Napoleonean armies
; Houses of the XIXe century
They are due to the “Americans”, Basque returned of America at that time.
- the castle Lota (1873), in the district of the Borough, testifies to the return to the country of a Basque having made fortune in Americas. In this precise case, this constrution of style Néorenaissance was built by Jean-Baptiste Duhart, who gave him the name of a carboniferous port Chilean, center of his marketing activity. The castle is now property of the commune and the seat of the Basque cultural Institute.
- Haltya Castle, Herauritz district, built by Halty Saver, with his return of the Mexico.
Religious architectural heritage
- the funerary vault of Dominique-Joseph Garat (1749-1833) in the cemetery of the district Saint-Michel, older funerary vault of the Basque Country.
- the college Saint-François ( the small seminar ), work (1926) Art déco of the architect Joseph Hiriart
- the church Saint-Vincent (19th century) (site protected from the national heritage) the principal characteristic of this building consists of a cast iron structure for the galleries. It one of the first buildings was built with this material, of avant-garde for its time.
- the convent of the Girls of the Cross ( Seroren Komentua ) which accommodates the community of the same name, established in Ustaritz since 1829.
- the steles discoïdales of the cemetery, some dating from XIIe and XIIIe centuries. They were gathered and development close to the site of the old church, on the initiative of Association LAUBURU, at the end of the Seventies.
Environmental inheritance
- the forest of Ustaritz (650 ha) is made up mainly of Chêne S, Hêtre S, Bouleau X and Merisier S. One meets there inter alia Sanglier S, Chevreuil S, as well as Blaireau X. It has also zones palombières
; Bank roads and walks
Culture
Museum
- House museum labourdine ( Etxe-moseoa ) Elizalderena, Arrauntz district, going back to 1696
Festivities
Ustaritz is very famous for its animated and merry festivals (Ustaritzeko Pestak).
The carnival of Ustaritz (Ihauteria) belonged to pitoresques of Labourd, with its decorated tanks, tanks often used like means of political dispute of the elected officials.
Since 1986, within the framework of the Hartzaro festival -
the alarm clock of the bear - which rate/rhythm the return of spring, take place in particular tournaments of
Bertsulari, gastronomical contests and musical groups, dances and carnavaliers of all the
Basque Country occur there. The last edition took place in February 2006.
First Sunday of October, takes place Lapurtarren Biltzarra. This festival gathers around a procession of tanks the morning, a meal organized by the ikastola Louis Dassance and of many musical animations all Lapurtar.
Other cultural vectors
- Radio operator Lapurdi Irratia : catholic radio of the parishes of Labourd (Diocese of Bayonne), pertaining to the French federation of the Christian Radios, emitting starting from the Holy College François-Xavier on Basque FM 96,8.
- cultural Institute , Euskal kultur erakundea : association for the promotion of the language and the Basque culture in Iparralde founded in 1990. In November 1997, it counted 222 members (143 communes and 79 associations). The institute was chaired by Txomin Héguy since its foundation up to 1997, then by Pantxoa Etchegoin. Association undertakes an important activity of translation, in collaboration with Euskaltzaindia , publishing directories bound for the various administrations, working on toponymy and bilingual public indication. It is in the beginning various childish publications such as Xirrita and Kometa . In the field of the theater, in collaboration with EATB, federation of theater Basque, it supports groups like Bordaxuri , Xirritxi Mirritxi and Oztibarreko antzerki . Activate in the field of the Bertsulari EMS, it collaborates narrowly with Bertsularien Lagunak . In that of the contemporary dance, it supports the group Ekarle . The Institute also projects the creation of a network which would gather the musical groups and of dance of Euskal Herria, associations choral societies, and would support the relations between the Music schools and the Academy of Bayonne. In the field of the defense of the inheritance, the institute publishes since 1992 a guide of the inheritance, recapitulating the cultural resources of the French Basque Country; he sponsors the creation of the Standing committee of the Basque Inheritance, as well as a creation project of a Center of education of the inheritance with Irissarry.
Sports and leisures
In 1933, thanks to his trio Leon Hiribarren - Gaston Heuty - François Etcheverry, Ustaritz is champion of France of
yoko garbi (or
joko garbi : small will chistera with the not very deep basket, which is played in pediment wall on the left or free place) during the
Grande Week of the Basque Sports .
Infrastructures
- the city has 7 pediment S, courts or free place. Of which a place of Rebot, with the pediment of the School of the Brothers (school Vincent Saint).
- Sports complex Landagoyen (multisport, tennis, covered swimming pool)
- municipal Stage of Rugby Errobi
- Council school of football
Clubs and associations
- horse Club Aitz Zaixpy
- Sports association and cultural of Arrauntz ASCA
- Sports association Kiroleta
- Football club Laburdins
Religious organization " Ur Begi"
Equipment
Early childhood
- Crib halt-nursery Urraska
Teaching
Ustaritz had in 1833 a school for the boys uniquement.
In 1992, primary public education counted 31 pupils. On its side, the Ikastola accommodated 28 pupils in nursery school and 41 in primary education.
; Nursery schools
; Primary educations
- Public school Idekia
- Public school of Herautitz
- Public school of Arrauntz
- Private school Saint-Vincent
- Ustaritzeko Ikastola
; Colleges
- College Saint-François-Xavier
; Colleges
- private College Saint-Joseph
- IFCAM (Training center of the apprentices to the trades of the bank)
- AFMR Etcharry (Training center for adults)
Health
- Center of Hérauritz, centers medico-social including/understanding a center of driving rehabilitation (CRM) for children and teenagers and a house of reception specialized (FARMHOUSE) addressing to adults dependant
- Old people's home Eliza-Hegui
- Old people's home the Caduceus
- Cabinets and dispensaries: Doctors (5) - Dentists (5) - Pharmacies (2) - Nurses (6) - Physiotherapists (4) - Speech therapists (2) - Dietician (1) - Podologue (1) - Physical therapy of readjustment (1)
Administrations on the spot
- Castle Basque Lota
- cultural Institute ( Euskal kultur erakundea )
- IKAS, Basque teaching center ( Euskal pedagogia zerbitzua )
- the Council of the Basque language
Others
Myths and Anecdotes…
-
the poet Francis James, when it entered the house Mendibela (the veil of the mountain) of the Hiribehere district, would have been accidentally spread out over the stone ground of Rhune of the entry of the residence…
-
One says that Dominique Joseph Garat became, after having notified in Louis XVI the sentence of dead on January 20th, 1793, more and more grognon and contained and that its gold glasses which served this January 20th, 1793, did not leave more than one drawer to which it was interdict of touching. Familiar of the house of Dominique Joseph Garat, the priest of Ustaritz used them one day to read his breviary and when Dominique Joseph Garat returning from a visit saw them, he exclaimed: “The glasses of the sentence” and fell struck down.
See too
Internal bonds
External bonds
- Official site (Town hall)
- Tourist office
- Uztaritze in Bernardo Estornés Wearied - Auñamendi Encyclopedia (Euskomedia Fundazioa)
Sources, references