The rosy wine does not have a satisfactory definition in spite of long debates as well at the French level as international. Indeed, if the EU law or the International organization of the vine and the wine gives well a definition of the Vin, they do not propose of it any for the white wines, the red wines or the rosy wines . In fact, the uses put up perfectly with this vacuum, since one enacts payment S and circular S, one negotiates, one sign Contrat S, in short one recognizes an undeniable existence with rosy in the world of the wine.
Although it is probably about the oldest wine of the history, the rosy ones up to one recent time were perceived like “ of the fruity wines, of light structure and which are drunk fresh he does not remain less true about it than they are big class one always does not take the care necessary to them especially one seldom holds the best grape harvest to them this type of wine making can be recommended to avoid certain defects of the black grapes lacking maturity, reached rot or to obtain a red wine more concentrated ”.
This quotation extracted from a recent work summarizes with it only the statute in which the rosy wine was locked up a long time: wine secondary, worked out by defect, without much technicality and unworthy of the interest of the oenologist! The situation could appear paradoxical in comparison with the historical importance of this type of Vinification; the passion of the consumers gradually made it possible to revise this perception which became obsolete today.
Of experiment, the vinificator can that it is difficult to obtain an at the same time fruity and balanced rosy wine, control its color and especially be regular of a Millésime with the other.
Type of vines used
The Cépage S which are used for the development of the rosy wines, are very numerous and are not specific of this type of wine making since they are also used with the production as red wines. According to the areas one can quote:The frank Cabernet, the Merlot, the Pineau d' Aunis, the black Pinot, the Gamay, the Côt, the Carignan, the Cinsaut, the black Grenache, the Tibouren, the Syrah, the Mourvèdre…
Techniques of development
The development of the rosy wine presents original engineering problems and requires specific knowledge
Selection criteria of a piece intended for making of top-of-the-range rosy wine
The experiment watch that the usual criteria of selection for a vintage at oenological strong potential in red are not directly transposable into rosy. In particular Enlightened the Leaf aera report/ratio/kg of grape is not also relevant: it will be more used to fix limits.The most recent approaches show that the compartmental sorting will be able to take into weak account more directly of the criteria of forced hydrous , of homogeneous coloring of the bay S (Véraison supplements) with good a fluidity of pulp (nongelatinous pulp).
The vinificator will have to also be vigilant as for the medical condition of the vintage which is essential to ensure:
- promptness (the purplished nuance) but also the stability of the color of the rosy wines (absence of Oxydase S and in particular of Enzyme laccase produced by the Botrytis)
- the aromatic clearness of the juices (absence of “earthy” tastes)
- the quality of the Washing by allowing less a microbiological contamination grapes by the indigenous microflora.
The last point to be taken into account, is essential for the vinificator of rosy: it consists in evaluating the potential color of the vintage which is variable according to the Cépage S, and for the same type of vine according to the level of maturity and the year as the graph shows it. An empirical approach consists in noting the number of fresh nights (< 15 °C) in August because the thermal Amplitude day/night is favorable to the accumulation of the Anthocyane S in the film of the bay of Raisin. On the graph opposite, one will note for example the lowest level of the curve corresponding to the year 2003, year of heat wave in Europe.
Difficult balance color/roundness
Qualities of “fruity” and especially of “roundness in mouth” are generally obtained thanks to a maceration pre-fermentaire of the vintage which makes it possible to extract from the pellicular compounds (precursory of Arôme S, Polysaccharide S…). This maceration is also favorable to a diffusion towards the Moût of the Anthocyane S persons in charge of the color of the grape and thus of the wine. The vinificator must thus find good balance between the color desired for the finished wine and the gustatory profile (roundness, acid perception…) of this same wine.
Among the factors on which this balance depends, the temperature of the vintage is a powerful lever for the control of the phenomena of Diffusion of the Pellicule towards the juice. Thus morning harvest (when the temperature is fresh) generally constitutes the rule, in particular in the southernmost areas like the Provence.
In short to obtain the sought wine, the vinificator will have to thus find the best compromise between:
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the level of maturity whose the potential color on the vintage
- the temperature of harvest depends which determines the speed of diffusion of the pellicular compounds
- the duration of the pre-fermentaire maceration which condition the intensity of these same phenomena
Methods of acquisition the juices
The wine making into rosy can be carried out according to two great principles:
The bleeding
Historically, they were to run out part of the juices as of the encuvage the red in order to increase the concentration of those, by simple increase in the solid report/ratio/liquid. In this case, the elements of the film diffuse towards a smaller quantity of juice: the wine is thus more “vigorous”.This technique is appropriate for cellars little specialized in the development of rosy and presents several disadvantages:
- the first juices also are sweetened, so that the rosy elaborate one is often “alcooleux” i.e. that it at the height presents a character “burning” to tasting bound voluminal alcoholometric title obtained after fermentation.
- the maceration thus carried out gives more coloured juices what is not compatible with the style of certain current rosy wines.
- the output of extraction is limited with a maximum around juice 20% collected what does not make it possible to have a specialization rosy on a whole cellar scale.
The principle of the bled remains in the areas with vocation rosy by the use of technical tanks known as “égouteuses” (FABBRI®, ELITE®…) in which the vinificator can let macerate the vintage more or less a long time according to its objective, that is to say in practice between 2 and 20 hours. These tanks make it possible to extract up to 60% from the juices, in particular if the vintage is enzymée. It can also be used as tank “plug” to absorb the flow of entry of vintage, which can be constant in the case of a mechanical harvest, when the presses are inalienable.
Direct pressing
It is the technique most often retained for the development of rosy “modern”.The vintage is directly poured in the Pressoir, which is pneumatic today, so that the maceration lasts only the time of the filling. The extraction is then launched according to a cycle in which follow one another of the phases pressure levels which increase gradually, alternate with phases of “rebéchage” during which the membrane deflates whereas the tank of the press carries out some rotations for émietter the marc. According to the color of the juices and their gustatory quality (the tannic aggressiveness increases advance of pressing progressively), these juices will be preserved or not: one speaks then about “fractionation of the juices of pressing”. They can be vinified separately, and be the subject of particular treatments like joinings to be then introduced into the assemblies according to dégustation. The discontinuous operation of the current presses forces a job management of harvest in order to optimize the flow of the grapes towards the workshop of pressing which must also be dimensioned consequently.
Notice concerning the red and white wine assembly:
In France only a zone of name authorizes the assembly red and white wines for obtaining rosy: the Champagne, where during the development of the vintage one assembles wines of Chardonnay, white Pinot and Pinot Meunier with those of black Pinot. In the other areas, the assembly is not prohibited but the wine will not be able to profit from name and will be displaced in Table wine. Abroad however it is not rare that the method is employed.
Research of aromatic clearness
As for the development of the white wines, the rosy must obtained by bleeding or direct pressing must be clarified before fermentation: it is the Débourbage. This stage is essential if one wants to obtain a fruity rosy wine and Net from an aromatic point of view, without vegetable or sulfur odors unpleasant.
The level of washing sought for a wine making into rosy ranges between 50 and 200 NTU, in lower part the risks of difficult alcoholic fermentation increase, above the clarification is insufficient to achieve the goals of aromatic smoothness of the wine.
The simplest technique of the washing consists of a static decantation of the juices, generally after a enzymage to hydrolize the pectic compounds which obstruct the spontaneous clarification. A fresh temperature (10 to 14 °C) facilitates the sedimentation of the bourbes and reduces the development of the contaminants which can spontaneously engage a still undesirable alcoholic fermentation at this stage. In the same way, the sulphiting and hygiene take part in the control of the possible contaminants.
The bourbes formed a deposit in bottom of tank can then be filtered on filter vacuum rotary or filters press to be reincorporated in the clear juices before fermentation.
To lead alcoholic fermentation
The Provence has the largest vineyard of rosy AOC (see given economic): this southernmost situation is not neutral from the point of view of the composition of musts. The conditions of maturation of the area give juices easily rich in sugar and low in assimilable nitrogen what constitutes a double difficulty for the Levure.
The objective of obtaining a “fruity” wine also imposes a fermentation on temperature controlled (14 enter to 20 °C according to the required style) on clarified juices what caused additional difficulties.
The vinificator of rosy must thus be a good technician to lead the alcoholic fermentations to their term.
At this stage, joinings (PVPP/Bentonite in particular) can be realized to decrease the still unstable color in the juices and to obtain the proteinic stability of the wine.
After completion of sugars, the wine is gradually clarified by simple static decantation (racking) or by centrifugation. The malolactic Fermentation is generally blocked to preserve the aromatic style (fruity expenses) and to avoid the premature yellowing of the color.
To preserve the style of the rosy wine
Qualities of freshness and youth which make the current success of the rosy wine are difficult to preserve in time. Thus the wine gradually takes notes “Miel lées”, “beeswax”, “Gelée of quinces”, “plum”, which characterize the normal evolution of the aromatic style. In parallel, the color evolves to orange nuances, and this all the more easily as the starting color is light.
The first of the rules consists in setting up in the cellar of the procedures of work of the wine which limit to the maximum the dissolved oxygen contribution (Inertage of the circuits, work safe from the air…). The breeding on fine dregs also makes it possible to improve the guard slightly.
Finally the conservation at temperature controlled (less than 18 °C) makes it possible to benefit longer from acquired qualities.
Elements of history of the rosy wine
The rosy one, first wine of the history
The history of the vine merges with that of the Mediterranean basin. More than one million years ago, the Vigne pushed there already in a wild state in the form of Lambrusque S, lianas wild which do not have of course, that a very remote resemblance to our modern Cépage S.
Although one finds traces of culture of the vine going back to strong a long time (in Mésopotamie and Spain for example), it is in high the Antiquité (approximately) that are born in Mésopotamie, the first techniques of Vinification and especially the Culture of the Wine .
The Egyptian paintings at that time attest already importance of the vine. But it is the Greek civilization which brings best lighting on the practices of antiquity. The Greek use wanted that one uses a whole series of vase S whose varied forms corresponded to the practice to mix the wine and water: these containers were decorated with paintings which generally put in scene Satyre S in charge of the development of the wine but also on the one hand of its consumption, and sometimes Dionysos itself.
The study of the oldest representations shows that the wine worked out then could only be of clear color since the Raisin which is brought on the place of wine making is either pressed , or directly in a hurry , the vinificator collects the juice immediately in order to make it ferment in light . Without Cuvaison, it was in fact impossible to obtain a constant red color. Thus many old representations (vases, mosaic S, Low-relief S,…) obviously show the current practice of the wine making into rosy, that it is in Egypt, in Greece or to Rome.
A diffusion with the favor of the trade and invasions
The vinum clarum
Throughout the Antiquity, to the favor of the trade and sometimes of the invasion S, the knowledge of the wine will spread on all the circumference of the Mediterranean basin. Thus, when 600 years before Jesus Christ, the Phocéen S unload on the Provençale coast, found Marseilles and essaiment little by little in the area, they bring at the same time in the holds of their ships, their culture of the wine and their wines of clear color .
The extension of the Empire Romain will involve that of the culture of the wine and in the steps of the Roman legions, at the beginning of the Christian era, the vine is spread in Spain and Gaulle, until in very septentrional areas.
During all this period, the wine making which was done primarily containing black grapes, remains free from maceration, the wines were thus also, as since high antiquity, of clear color . The juice was in general collected after simple a Foulage and in a hurry one was immediate. The Pressoir was known for a long time already but they was heavy machines, extremely expensive and few cellars could have some. Richest, equipped better, could press with the request for most modest, but with the help of a payment generally considered to be too expensive.
With the fall of the Roman Empire, the church maintains in its Diocèse S, the culture of the vine and the wine, and spreads its marketing. The vineyard extends then regularly everywhere in Europe, helped in that by the extension of the monastic orders, fond of delicacies of this wine clearly named by them vinum clarum , and which will become more simply claret then pale . Other types of wines however composed the pallet of the time: the white, and vermeil or black, vinum rubeum , obtained by a longer maceration. It should be noted that it seems that, put aside in Italy, the grapes were during centuries, very mainly of black color.
The Pale
As from the 13th century, the area of Bordeaux and to a lesser extent the other areas of production establish with the England and the Scandinavian countries a profitable trade of claret : the important fields of the Archevêché of Bordeaux at that time produced 87% of pale for red wine 13% (vinum rubeum), and a completely negligible white wine share. These proportions were the rule, not only in the of Bordeaux one, but also in the other French wine-producing areas.The request for pale is still raises some at the 16th century, and at that time it is always the preferred wine of English. But he also is very appreciated in the Northern Europe, where the merchants convey it Flemish S and Dutch which introduces at that time the practice of the sulphiting. It should be noticed that, at that time, the Dutch painters did not represent in the carafes and glasses, that clear wine . The customs statistics of the port of Bruges reveal that the consumption of pale is in Belgium, at the 15th century and 16th century, of 76 liters per capita. In Paris, an inventory of 169 cellars of financial realized in first half of the 17th century gives a report on a proportion of 80% of pale .
The writings of doctors inform about the perception which one had of the pale ones: one appreciated their promptness, their freshness, one regarded them as “healthy” wines, “nutritive little the body”, and intended for the urban consumers and rather aristocrats.
At that time, the pale one is made by bled , but includes/understands also sometimes a mixture of white grapes and black grapes, since it was considered whereas complanter red and white type of vines could rightly protect harvest from the frosts.
It is in 1682 in the vineyard of Argenteuil that one notes for the first time among all the denominations indicating the clear wines, the appearance of the term rosy wine .
One can nevertheless release two great whole with:
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the countries in which the rosy market is in crisis as the the United States where the consumption of “Blush” fell of 17% in 10 years.
- the countries in which the consumption and the rosy market are in full change like France with the favor of a change of mode of consumption of the product “wine”
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