Reinhold Messner

Reinhold Messner , regarded by much as one of best the Mountaineer S of all times, was born the September 17th 1944 with Villnöss-Funes from the the Tyrol from the South in Italy.

It is the first with Peter Habeler to make a success of a rise of the roof of the world without the assistance of oxygen in 1978, and the first to climb the Everest as a recluse in 1980.

It is also the first to have made a success of the rise of the 14 tops of more than 8000 meters.

It is always the first to have climbed the " Seven Summits" , i.e. culminating points of the seven continents (North America, of the South, Africa, Europe, Asia, the Antarctic and Oceania).

In 1990 realizes the crossing of the Antarctic (departure of Patriot Hills, arrived at Mac Murdo while passing by the pole) with Arved Fuchs in 92 days (2400 km) while drawing from the sledges.

In 2004 it carries out the crossing of the Gobi Desert to foot (2000 km).

Principal exploits

1970: first rise of the Nanga Parbat (8126 m) by the slope of the Rupal, most difficult, with his/her brother Günther Messner. At the time of the descent, Günther dies (one will find its body in July 2005) and Reinhold loses several toes. Since then, it will be devoted to the alpinism, him which was regarded especially as a specialist in the Escalade.
1972: first rise of the Manaslu (8156) by the southern face.
1972: rise of the Nowshak (7492).
1973: first rise of the Assembles Pelmo (3168 m) by the north-western face.
1973: first rise of the Marmolada (3342 m) by the western pillar.
1974: opening of a new way on the southern face of the Aconcagua (6960 m).
1974: rise of the northern face of the mount Eiger (Swiss, 3970 m) in only ten hours.
1975: first rise in alpine style of the Gasherbrum I (8068 m).
1976: rise of the Mount McKinley.
1978: first rise of the Kilimandjaro (5893 m) by the " Breach Wall".
1978: first rise of the mount Everest (8850 m) without oxygen. This exploit was regarded before as physiologically impossible for an human being because of altitude.
1978: first rise of the Nanga Parbat in solo. It is also the first solitary rise of a top of more than 8000 Mr.
1979: first rise of the K2 in alpine style.
1980: first rise of the Everest as a recluse.
1981: rise of the Xixabangma (8013 m).
1981: rise of the Chamlang (7319 m).
1982: rise of the Kangchenjunga (8598 m).
1982: rise of the Gasherbrum II (8035 m).
1982: rise of the Broad Peak (8047). He is thus the first man to climb three tops of more than 8000 m in the same season.
1983: rise of the Cho Oyu (8201 m), after having failed first once the previous year.
1984: rise of the Gasherbrum I then Gasherbrum II without return to the base camp. It is the first time that one thus connects two tops of more than 8000 Mr.
1985: first rise of the Annapurna (8091 m) by the north-western face.
1985: rise of the Dhaulagiri (8167 m).
1986: rise of the Makalu (8481 m).
1986: rise of the Lhotse (8501 m). He becomes thus the first man to have climbed the fourteen tops of more than 8000 Mr.
1986: rise of the Massive Vinson (4897 m), culminating point of the the Antarctic. Messner becomes thus the first man to have climbed the culminating points of the seven continents (North America, of the South, Africa, Europe, Asia, the Antarctic and Oceania).

See too

Summits of more than eight thousand meters

References

Reinhold Messner, 1st winner of the 14 eight thousand , Éditions Denoël.
One killed impossible the , Caroline Alexander, in National Geographic France , n°86, November 2006.

External bonds

Personal site of Reinhold Messner (in German)

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