Rakaposhi

The Rakaposhi , is the 27e more high summit of the world (12e of the Pakistan). It is in the valley of Nagar, to approximately 100 km in the north of Gilgit, in the Karakoram. The name means " Wall brillant". It is also known under the name of Dumani (" The mother of the brouillards"). It is very known for its beauty, in spite of its modest row.

The first rise took place in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a forwarding britanno - Pakistani, by the south-western edge. They suffered both from gelures; another climbing chut and died during the night.

Characteristics

Rakaposhi presents one of the unevenness most important to the world. For example, it rises 6000m in 16,5 km of distance since the valley of the Hunza. Rakaposhi is quite visible Karakoram Highway. A view-point of the town of Ghulmat, called " Zero Point off Rakaposhi" (" Point zero of Rakaposhi") is the point of view nearest to the mountain.

History

  • 1892 Martin Conway explores the southern face of Rakaposhi.
  • 1938 - Mr. Vyvyan and R. Campbell Secord make the first recognition and climb on the north-eastern top to 6858 m by the northern edge.
  • 1947 Secord returns with Bill Tilman and two climbing Swiss; they go up by the Gunti glacier until 5800m on the south-western edge.
  • 1954 a team of the University of Cambridge, carried out by Alfred Tissières, tries the rise via the edge south-western, but only reached 6340m. A forwarding austro-allemande, carried out by Mathias Rebitsch, tries the same way.
  • 1956 - an américano-English forwarding reaches the altitude of 7163 m above the Kunti glacier.
  • 1958 - Mike Banks and Tom Patey make a success of the first rise during a British forwarding. She was regarded as one of the hardest ways of the time.
  • 1964 an Irish forwarding tries the north-western, long and difficult edge.
  • 1971 Karl Herrligkofer carries out an attempt on the northern, elegant but difficult spur.
  • 1973 Herrligkofer returns on the northern edge, but fails because of the deadlines and the weather.
  • 1979 a polono-Pakistani forwarding carries out the rise of the north-western edge.
  • 1979 First rise of the northern spur by a Japanese forwarding of the University Waseda. Arrive at the top Ohtani and Matsushi Yamashita. This rise was carried out with 5000m of fixed cords.
  • 1983 Rise by the South-western edge of a team of the Belgian Alpine Club. Jacques Collaer was chief of forwarding.
  • 1984 a Canadian team makes a success of a rise of the northern spur in semi-alpine style, by using much less fixed cords than the Japanese. The team was made up of Barry Blanchard, David Cheesmond, Kevin Doyle.
  • 1985 - 1987 Diverses unfruitful attempts on the long edge is.
  • 1986 a Dutchwoman team carries out a variation of the north-western edge.
  • 1995 a rise by the north-western edge.
  • 1997 a rise by the south-western edge (perhaps the original way).
  • 2000 Tentative via the face is (Bagrot glacier).

Climbing roads

The roads with successful summits so far cuts been (see the timeline ace well):

  • Southwest Spur/Ridge (first ascent road). Length, goal not exceedingly technical. Summon tricky gendarmes (rock'n'roll pinnacles). Has been repeated.
  • Northwest Ridge. Length, and more technically difficult than the SW Spur/Ridge. Has been repeated.
  • North Spur (a.k.a. North Ridge). Shorter than the above two roads, goal much more technically difficult. Has been repeated, including has semi-alpine-style (capsule style) ascent.

Attempts cuts also been made from the east side (Bagrot Glacier), the East Ridge, and the North Face. -->

Ways of rise

The routes traversed successfully until now are:
  • the south-western edge (way of the first rise), which was repeated;
  • the edge north-western, long and more difficult than the south-western edge, repeated;
  • the northern, shorter spur but much more difficult technically. The route was repeated, partially in alpine style.

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