Moutiers-Saint-Jean

Moutiers-Saint-Jean is a common French, located in the department of the Coast-with Or and the area Burgundy.

Geography

History

Administration

Demography

Places and monuments

MOUTIER-SAINT-JEAN GENERAL PRESENTATION OF THE INHERITANCE

By François PEYRE, Architect of the Inheritance (Except contrary mention, the stereotypes are of the author)

INTRODUCTION

The village of Moutier-Saint-Jean is an old pilot borough of a plentiful history and whose presence of architectural vestiges shows the richness of last of this commune today somewhat dormant. The commune is located at 200 meters of altitude, 15,3 km of chief place (Montbard) and 15,5 km of Semur-in-Auxois. It is crossed by the Secondary Road N°1. Populated of 260 inhabitants, the village is located in a small valley creates by the brook (Réome) between the plain of Auxois and the plate of Chatillonnais-Tonnerrois. Formerly famous agricultural area for the quality of its ground, it is dominated today by a scrap-metal landscape being transformed into intensive cereal cultures and the tradition of breeding of bovines. The vine, very present on the slopes before will phylloxera, almost disappeared from the area. The history of the village is closely related to that of the power abbey installed in these places at the time mérovingienne. No older archaeological vestige was to date discovered in the village which thus seems to be born of a new agglomeration, in the North of the monastery. If the abbey saint Jean de Réome were the subject of old and more recent studies, the other elements of the village are documented little in spite of obvious qualities which make of it a village particularly rich in vestiges and history.

LOCALIZATION OF the ELEMENTS PRESENT ON the COMMUNE AND AT the SURROUNDINGS (N°1 CHART):

The archaeological inheritance of Moutier-Saint-Jean and the close surroundings is particularly rich. The known elements are, chronologically:

N°1 chart In overloaded in top on the right, a way probably pre-Roman who connected Semur-in-Auxois to Tonnerre and allowed the passage between two different people whose border was located at the threshold of the plate. This way is represented like old and important on the chart of Cassini at the 18th century. In has, of the paleolithic vestiges and of the age of iron were found in prospection of surface at the 19th century. Out of B, with the place called “in Maubais”, the vestiges of a Gallo-Roman “Villa” of the 2nd century of our era are. Out of C, the borough gathers the abbey, the hospital, the church and the borough and its old houses defended by the ramparts, (see detail hereafter). In D, the vault of the hamlet of St Just and the farm of the hospital (13th and 16th centuries). In E, a vault with the place says co. Marguerite (present on the chart of Cassini). Out of F, the farm of the abbey with its barn-market of the 15th century. In G, the bridge requested from the province by the prosecutor of the abbey in 1747 (inscription on the wall downstream). Out of H, old tilery activates between the middle of the 19th century and 1950.

DESCRIPTION AND CHRONOLOGICAL ELEMENTS OF THE UNITS AND MONUMENTS CONSTITUTING THE BOROUGH:

The components of the borough form four distinct units: the abbey in its enclosure, the hospital surrounded by walls also, closed in the past wall borough crossed today by many extensions and the district of the “bottom of the country” installed under the abbey and the hospital. We will not speak here about the Northern extension of the village (recent allotment and isolated habitat). The parish church, out the walls, being a singular point. The N°2 chart shows the localization and the actual position of these various works of which we will specify the origin and the nature of the elements remaining or disappeared.

Fig. N°2

A/ The PARISH CHURCH Saint Paul

The parish church of the conversion of Paul saint is built out the walls. Probably built with the site of an older building, the nave, the Northern arm of the transept and crossing are Romance and remain of a great sobriety which was to contrast with the richness of the abbey neighbor. At the 13th century one there assistant a deep Gothic chorus and one raises the bell-tower. The southern arm of the transept is completely altered in XVIe century. This church contains a very rich furniture partly resulting from abbey before its demolition. One notes in particular the presence of the relics of saint Jean de Réome, founder of the abbey, several statues of Burgundian style of the 15th century, a large Virgin of the Assumption of the 18th century and several tables, unfortunately in very bad condition. The side retables are interesting in more than one way, to North it are devoted to saint Jean de Réome and the South, with saint Antoine the large one, are represented in low relief of stucco in the vault arranged by Antoinette Vaussin de Flandres as from 1710 in the preexistent Gothic vault.

Fig. N°3

PREGNANT B/L' OF THE BOROUGH

The enclosing walls (fig. 4), stressed turns of defense rounds provided with horizontal loopholes, were built and reinforced during the 15th century, following the disorders and plunderings due to the " Flayers " in 1434, in Huguenots, in 1567 and with the Members of a league in 1590. They enclose the old borough and the large houses former to the extensions of 17th and 18th centuries. This enclosure, being next to that of the abbey and that of the hospital, is preserved in place on three sections and its southern door is still in place. One finds of it the complete layout in the compartmental one and toponymy (Door in Goths in North).

Fig. N°4

C/LES GARDENS AND HOTEL COEURDEROY

If the Cœurderoy hotel which (gathers two medieval houses) giving on main street is not a particularly original building, the composition which it forms, with dimensions garden, with the park and installation landscape on other side of the enclosure constitute a particularly remarkable unit. Built in second half of the XVIIe century for Jean Cœurderoy, Master of requests at the Parliament of Burgundy, installation forms a advance symbolic system towards the light. Since the hotel comprising two wings finished by a frontage in rubble with pediment and niche, one sees the landscape of the countryside réomoise with the enclosure of the abbey on the right, the parish church on the left and a very majestic old oak in the center, preceded by an open niche in rubble. Since the terrace overhanging the covered way of the fortifications, a staircase goes down in the ground and leads to the entry of a rather vast tunnel. On both sides, of the cisterns and perhaps a refrigerator are arranged. A device of hydraulic channels evil known leads water collected to the exit of the underground. The advance towards the light is particularly well expressed in this adventure and the exit is dazzling. The setting in scene of the part in which one emerges is very neat, an appreciably trapezoidal part prolonged by a half-circle punctuated of a basin and opened on the landscape by three arcades in rubble who tallies each one a particular landscape, and open the composition on external space. When one is turned over, an imposing terrace covers the tunnel and the side parts, of the staircases of end give access the platform, made up like one second scene with its niches in rubble and the pylons, probably furnished with chains formerly, which border space on the side of the vacuum. Downwards, a “cave” (refrigerator) glaze in lava gives an axis to the composition of basins and floors of orchards and an other edible door with rubble finishes the axis of the lower part. As showed it the archaeological research carried out in 1993, hydraulics of the garden is rather erudite and testifies to an obvious know-how. Let us note also acoustic qualities of the building, surprising for a work in the open air this dimension and suitable to emphasize saynètes or other spectacles. There one is tempted to see there the hand of an architect or garden Italian, large specialists in these works at the time. Certain authors made the assumption of an author close to Serlio which worked then with the castle of Ancy-the-Franc. In any event, it should well be recognized that this exceptional garden is well the work of a Master.

Fig. N°5

D/L' ABBEY JEAN SAINT OF RÉOME

Founded, according to the tradition, towards 450 Jean, a son of noble Dijonese patricians, the abbey, which one says being oldest of Burgundy, was initially installed close to the source of Réome on the territory of the current commune of Corsaint. It was then about a simple hermitage in the “desert”. It was transferred in its current site during the Life or of VIIe century to begin one period of great prosperity which will culminate at the 12th century, the abbey one is devoted by the bishop of langres in 1177. There does not remain large any more thing of this time, put aside the old iconography and a few pieces of scattered sculptures, whose most beautiful elements decorate the museums of Louvre, Dijon or the American collections. The current buildings date in major part of the period of rebuilding at the end of the 17th century, date on which the reform maurist was introduced in holy Moutier Jean. Large the abbey Romance one, in spite of its good state, was demolished following the Revolution and its stones employed again in many construction industries around. During its time more ostentation, the abbey ensured its authority on more than 22 parishes, primarily in the current department of Yonne. Its abbot was very recognized and listened, it took part in the various councils of the time.

PERIOD PRÉROMANE

The oldest vestiges which reached us are fragments of the sarcophagus of Jean saint. This rectangular marble tank is represented in entirety at the 18th century and is quoted of many times in the old descriptions preserved in the files. The principal face of this tomb is carved in sculpture in the round of one blind arcade to the antique called “to doors of city” sheltering Christ and the twelve apostles in a style inspired of the sarcophagi of the Roman antiquity but whose Christian character is not any doubt. These sarcophagi generally dated from IVe century of our era seem to be carved in Italy of North or in the South of France, one finds other tanks of the same type, in particular with the Gallo-Roman museum of Lyon or in certain Italian collections. The old iconography shows already degradations on the heads of the characters who were broken by Huguenots during the wars of religion. The three preserved pieces are very significant work, it acts first of all of the high central part of the tank with Christ without head, larger than the close characters and holding an attribute hurled in the right hand, which distinguishes it from the others. The second piece is a head of apostle, looking towards the line, and recognizable on old engraving among the few faces having survived, it is about the character on the right on the sight. In the absence of particular attribute of the apostles, it is impossible to identify it. The third piece is part of the bottom of a dress of a more secondary interest.

In the absence of excavations archaeological on the ground of the abbey, it is difficult to know the provisions préromanes of the church or the monastery. The rare sources of files available specify well the presence of a church to the monastery as of the time mérovingienne, but without specifying the form of it. The first convincing element, and only to date, that we can present consists of a small limestone capital of “Carolingian” style, decorated rather rough palmettes. Ornament of a small gate or a coupled window, this only element only informs us very little about the architecture of the abbey one. However, the texts of this time testify to a flourishing abbey with at its head of the powerful abbots who were to have in heart to celebrate in a building of great width to neat decoration. Fig. N°6

THE ROMANCE PERIOD

The Romance time is incontestably the most flourishing period and richest of the abbey saint Jean de Réome. This period was well analyzed by several recent publications. Under the impulse of powerful and warned abbots, the monastery grows rich and embellished quickly, the abbey one is rebuilt by Odilon between 1120 and 1180, its architecture and its decoration do not have then anything to envy those of Vézelay, Autun or even that of the major abbey, Cluny. The quality of the found capitals, the architectonic details or the gate represented at the 18th century (fig. 7), testify to a very neat construction having called upon the best masons, masons stone and sculptors of the moment. We do not have any plan of the church, but some old descriptions and a perspective sight of the abbey before work of the 17th century enables us to define some characteristics of them. The abbey one, as represented within principle attached (fig.7), then presented a nave of six spans with a rise to three levels, a surmounted nonprojecting transept of a tower of crossing, a long chorus of three spans prolonged of an apse hémicirculaire sheltering the vault of Jean saint. Two collateral bordered the nave, the transept and the sanctuary, they ended (at least in the south) in a vault forming a spread out bedside. The interior was stressed projecting spans and formeret arcs perhaps decorated with billets (before the repair of the vaults at the 18th century), with capitals on grooved pilasters (at least in the crossing of transept), and undoubtedly with columns and circular capitals at base in the sides and under the arcades between nave and sides. Indeed, the vestiges show rectangular capitals with base with the very sloping basket and more vertical capitals at round base. The known decorations are historiés or vegetable with certain differences in style which attach them to several schools of sculptors known on the great Burgundian sites. To date we know 7 historiés capitals and 12 capitals with foliages, dispersed in several museums in France and in the United States. Another historié capital approaches, by its style, of the Western gate.

A broad porch opened in the West, it is known by the engraving published in the 18th century (fig. 8). The carved tympanum and the drawing which one can seize of the capitals seem however later than the style of the big tops of the interior. FIG. N°7 FIG. N°8

Remainder of the buildings of the medieval abbey, it remains, today, almost nothing any more, except for the already Gothic frontage of the “farinier”, present on engraving on the left in front of the abbey one and on the model of the 18th century in question further. The whole of the other buildings was completely replaced during the work completed by the monks maurists at the end of the 17th century. The abbey one was destroyed before 1830.

With this major period of the history of the abbey, we will associate the Gothic additions which are attested by the preserved documents and vestiges. Initially the southernmost gate of the 13th century (figure 9), giving access to the church since the cloister abbey, is preserved perfectly, but in the United States…. It was sold in 1920, of the old photographs show it in one of the walls of the barn which replaced the abbey one after the Revolution. This gate re-installed in Cloisters Muséum in New York is an early good example of the gate with statues columns of the beginning of the Gothic time in Burgundy. With the tympanum the crowning of the Virgin and, against splayings, the statues of Clovis and Clotaire, famous supposed godfathers of the abbey. The reassembly carried out on the other side of the Atlantic poses some problem of interpretation however. Indeed, the general proportions of the unit seem collected by reports/ratios with the twinges suitable for the Gothic style, the fathers of the church to the front of splayings are only 8 and the absence of lintel under the tympanum appears curious. However the reassembly was carried out as it was in the abbey at the beginning of the 20th century. It thus should be deduced from it that it had been gone up during the 19th century and that neighbouring masonries cannot be held like that of the southern wall of the abbey one. The visible cloister on the sight of the 17th century already seems to have known a beginning of replacement with the south. However, the northern span present of trefoil geminated bays or with oculus from where certain found carved corner pieces could come, in particular in filling of the southernmost gate. This cloister could be covered with ribbed vaults on square base or barlongue, with carved keys which were found in great number.

Fig. N°9

THE TRADITIONAL PERIOD

As from the 15th century the monastery loses its power and of its incomes. The situation worsens with the disorders of the one hundred year old war, of the wars of religion and of the League, the abbey is plundered on several occasions. The situation of strongly degrades until the resumption in hand by the Mauristes brothers as from 1635. The latter, monks very scholars, will allow the revival of the monastery then under the mode of the commende and will almost completely renew the architecture of the abbey other than the farinier and the nave and the transept of the abbey one which will be preserved until the revolutionary period and beyond. Under the impulse of the abbots of Rochefoucauld and Rochechouard de Chandenier, the chorus and the transept of abbey will be rebuilt, the cells of the monks, the living room of music to the stuccos and gypseries delicate, the library and three wings of the cloister will be rebuilt in a new taste, just as the gate of entry, the barns with said and the hotel trade which was luxurious. Work is rather long and stops on several occasions. A model of this period is preserved (Fig.10), it shows a state appreciably different from existing with dissimilar pediments and modénatures and bays from different proportions. This situation leads us to consider the possibility of being vis-a-vis a model of project, before realization and this in spite of the presence of a label giving a late date. As no old plans of these buildings are preserved, the answer is not easy, perhaps an excavated analysis of the files of this period would specify this assumption. The principal buildings and in particular the frontage on the terraces (fig.11), are built in large apparatus, with strong modénatures and carved projecting keys. Scheduling is very strict and reveals a hand of Master of which we do not know the identity with certainty.

Fig. 10 Fig. 11

During all this period, the abbey one is preserved in service. At the 18th century, the chorus and the transept are rebuilt in 1730.

The bell-tower of abbey was cut down, not without evil, the 2 fructidor of year II. Buildings of the monastery, without the church, its sold as quite national 25 Thermidor year V (that is to say in 1797) and demolished, except for the home of the monks. For the abbey one, the revolutionary reports/ratios of visit describe it like healthy and in good state in spite of the consecutive disorders with the demolition of the sign of feudality (the bell-tower). This situation does not prevent its sale like national good into 183 and its demolition before 1831, in spite of the will of the inhabitants to keep it like place of principal worship. The stones resulting from its demolition then will be used of matter for the lime kilns and as construction materials for many buildings neighborhood.

As from this period, the remainder of these buildings is divided and is used of residences and farm. In particular, a barn is built with the site of the church, the last medieval vestiges disappear little by little, the gate in 1920, the well of the cloister removed in the Sixties, the dispersed concise vestiges… It is however necessary to pay homage to the last owners who maintained the buildings (in particular the cover) and positioned back joineries.

E/ The HOLY HOSPITAL SAVER

This old people's home of charity (fig. 12) was founded at the end of the 17th century per Claude de Rochechouard-Chandenier, commendatory abbot of the abbey, to relieve the poor and the patients of the villages depending on the monastery. Organized on the enlightened councils of its holy friend Vincent of Paul, this establishment is currently used as residence for elderly. The traditional frontage of the end of the 17th century shows holy Vincent and holy Jean Baptiste in putti with Italian, but the interior was very modified in the third quarter of the 20th century. In particular, the very beautiful piece of furniture-retable was removed. The other buildings in addition contain a very beautiful pharmacy with earthenware and furniture, a portrait of Vincent saint by Simon François (1660) and a statue of the Virgin to the marble Child of XIVe century.

Fig.12

F/ The CIVIL HABITAT

The old borough of Moutier Saint Jean preserves, in spite of the demolitions, of many old houses, in particular on North-South main street. Oldest (fig. 13) is in the high part. Named for a long time the " attic of Flandre" , this composite construction presents a Romance frontage with stage to clear commercial way on arcades to rez of roadway of great quality although partially preserved, a medieval big room (Aula) with an immense datable chimney of the 14th century, on arched cellars and profiled pillars and an extension of the 17th century partly destroyed today.

Fig 13

14th, 15th and the 16th century are well represented, in particular the hotel present at the north of the preceding house (very transformed) and the property which faces him (Fig.14). These establishments respect the enclosure and consist of a large frontage and a court with commun runs. Fig 14

With 17th and 18th century, members of the noblesse de robe settle in Moutier, one owes them of the more imposing hotels whose gardens overflow the limits of the fortifications become obsolete, in particular the Cœurderoy hotel already quoted, the “Buffonnerie” or another present more at North also carrying hearts with the gate.

Personalities related to the commune

See too

Common of Coast-in Or

External bonds

Moutiers-Saint-Jean on the site of the national geographical Institute
Moutiers-Saint-Jean on the site of INSEE
Moutiers-Saint-Jean on the site of Quid
Localization of Moutiers-Saint-Jean on a chart of France and communes bordering
Plane on Moutiers-Saint-Jean on Mapquest

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