Mode at the XXe century
This article presents the mode to the 20th century in Europe.
The male costume evolves/moves little in first half of the century. The sudden female costume as for him several major changes which will be due to the Guerre, with the Sport and the rise of the Automobile.
Years 1900
See also: fashion in 1900
The women carry immense Chapeau X, Boléro S with cascade of Dentelle, Jupe S in corolla and Corsage S decorated with Perle S or fringes.
The Tournure becomes a dress with a train which will be the symbol of the Belle Time.
At the Beautiful Time, it is also the fashion of the Moustache S and of the Barbe S for the men who must have a perfect fold, to be done they sleep with a fixed-moustache .
The women must have a silouhette in S thanks to a Corset or a Guêpière aiming at emphasizing the chest and accentuate the camber. The range S are in vogue. It is the appearance of the first coats of Fourrure, the apogee of the Haut-de-forme, and the leg-of-mutton sleeves for the women.
Years 1910
See also: Years 1910
After the Beautiful Time, the war takes the step on the frivolity of the mode, the Textile industry is mobilized by the effort of war, the fashion reappears only in the years 1920.
The First World War paralyzes the world of the mode but brings more comfortable Sous-vêtement S.
Women
As of the years 1910, the female silouhette lengthens again but the bottom of the Jupe S is blocked obliging the women to take small steps. Paul Poiret removes the Corset and simplifies the ladies' garment.
The Hermine is the Textile with the mode, it goes in stole, Manchon S, turn of neck or even in edge of the Jupe or the Corsage.
It is the return of the divided skirt or skirt-pants in another form which that launched by the rise of the bicycle, the breeches resembles more one broad pants of Satin and goes down from now on in bottom from the legs with a skirt draped over.
The fashion is with the lengthened silhouette and in this spirit the Handbag goes in shoulder-belt on the shoulder falling until the chevilles.
The Corset known as normal line makes its apparition.
In 1914, the wigs of colors are of setting with an evening dress.
Men
The advent of the complete revolutionizes the male fashion.
Years 1920
See also: Years 1920
The fashion reappears transformed by the deprivations: the skirts go short (below the knees), the tailor was adopted: comfortable and practical town suit.
Thanks to the large steamers which link Europe and the United States, the two continents are influenced in term of mode.
The Sport and the Automobile influence clothing more and more.
Women
The silouhette is lengthened and right; the bust is flat, the gummed chest and cuts it very low.
In summer, the arms and the neck are discovered as well as the legs to the lower part of the genou.
The bathing costumes take the form of true bathing suits even if they still remain very covering on the thighs or the épaules.
In winter, for the ski in particular, it is the return of the sticking breeches carried with Guêtre s.
The coat is crossed, long and is closed by a collar rolled moulant.
It is the appearance of the Coiffure known as garçonne and of the Chapeau known as bell .
The Corset was definitively replaced by the Porte-jarretelles.
With the rise of the automoblie, the ladies' garment clearly evolved/moved to pass in hardly 20 years the top Corset with trailing Jupe, Chignon, Ombrelle and Chapeau heavily decorated with Voilette with the Chandail indented with naked arms with skirt with the knees and cloche hat.
For the hairstyles, it is the advent of the Setting-in-fold which will also remain in vogue in the Années 1930.
Men
The sporting pace is of setting, the complete goes with reasons to squares, the plus fours is very tendency.
Little evolution, the Veste became jacket and the Chapeau goes soft.
The evening dress remains the smoking.
The rise of the car having also brought some elements to the behavior: Dust-coat, Cap, Glasses S and Glove S of Leather.
Years 1930
See also: Years 1930
The Sport makes evolve/move clothing and the fashion.
Women
The long dress remakes its appearance in the form of evening gown, but the tailor remains of setting in behavior of ville.In summer 1933, the Short appears massively on the beaches sometimes matched with a naked Dos.
The coat goes short, bordered of Fourrure and carried with a Toque matched or in wraps.
The Chapeau is a Béret or a felt.
The Corsage is strapped in the girdles.
The Jupe gradually goes up with the top it knee to be then described as very short .
It is in summer 1939 that the pants is essential in the female fashion with a broad cut and revers.
The Bathing suit a part and its bonnet become a true clothing to swim.
Men
The plus-fours in Prince de Galles (fabric) with Casquette matched is in vogue whose Tintin will immortalisera the pants.
Years 1940
See also: Years 1940
The war paralyzes the industry of the textile again, the raw materials are rare and expensive. This situation imposes a mode of circumstance due to the deprivations: short Skirt (below the knee), square shoulders, small Hat, Shoe S with platform soles or out of wood.
It is also the appearance of the Zazou S .
It is in 1947 that Christian Dior revival fashion by founding the New Look : full line, marked small size and hips.
Years 1950
See also: Years 1950
In 1954, Coco Chanel lance the tailor like a kind of reaction to the New Look .
The Duffle coat and the Chignon sauerkraut become popular. The skirts are sometimes inflated of Jupon S in Tulle.
The Chaussure S with support are in vogue for the women.
Years 1960
See also: Years 1960
Years 1960 mark the rise of the Prêt-à-porter.
Women
For the evening, the female silhouette is still defined by a Taille of wasp and a Jupe or a long dress (below the knee).In town suit, the skirts gradually will go up on the legs to pass from lower part the knee at the beginning of the decade with the Minijupe at the end of the decade (as from 1965), at the same time supporting the port of the Sticking.
The Jacket S or the Cardigan S are simply closed free in and out without means of fixing or then by single a button close to the collar.
The handles are long and sticking. The reasons in particular with pea and stripe S are in vogue.
The essential accessories are the Chapeau in form of Toque, the Bandeau or the Foulard in the Cheveu X and the Lunette S even futuristic imaginations. The jewels are multicoloured and out of plastic.
The boots are with the mode. Radical upheaval as from 1965: the heel switches bent yields the place to the ogee and square (high or dish). The female silhouette becomes geometrical (André Courrèges, Pierre Cardin), without size nor chest, and the short and helmeted hairstyle (Mireille Mathieu at its beginnings).
Years 1970
See also: Years 1970
It is the appearance of new matters of which the plastic .
Pierre Cardin creates moulded plastic dresses and Justaucorps in Résille of Vinyle. Paco Rabanne creates a dress in Métal.
Women
It is the rise of the printed Tee-shirt and the pants which goes from now on in all circumstances, in particular the Blue-jeans.The Androgynie begins its appearance via the Coiffure S: women with hair short, men with hair length; the women carry more and more easily of the costumes of man.
The coats are full, half-compartment in form of dresses or of S. wraps the pants have legs of elephant .
The Chaussure S are Botte S or are at platform .
The impressions Textile S take as a starting point Motif S Eastern or by the Fourrure S (Panthère or Ocelot in whimsical Couleur S blue, pink, etc). The qualified colors of color sun are proposed for the town suits, but the Noir guard a side sophisticated and distinguished favoured for the behaviors from soirées.
The rise of the plastics for the accessories (jewels, girdles, etc) accentuates this multicoloured tendency. Plastic
The brilliance is sails and is expressed very about it over all the decade via brilliant matters (Satin, Vinyl, etc) or by the Paillette S present as much in the Vêtement as the Maquillage. This tendency to brilliance will give rise to the mode Strass at the end of the decade. The make-up also evolves of the spangles to the Nacre.
The silouhette of woman becomes tapering in the middle of the decade and it is the beginning of the notch S on the thighs for the bathing suits. As of 1979, Thierry Mugler invents the silouhette Années 1980: Jacket shouldered, right Skirt, Escarpin S ends.
Note and source
See too
Related articles
- History of the costume
- History of the mode in France
- Mode at the XIXe century
- Mode (clothing)
- Textile: Wool, Cotton, flax, Silk
- Dyeing
- various Materials: Leather, Fur, Straw, feather
- Military uniform
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