Lionel Terray

Lionel Terray is a mountaineer French born the July 25th 1921 and dead the September 19th 1965. It is known for its many first and its forwardings among which the conquest of the first top of more than 8000 meters: the Annapurna.

It leaves a work to the evocative title: “ Conquerors of useless the ” from which quotations Ci are extracted below.

His/her friend Marcel Ichac (companion with the Annapurna in particular) drew a film from it: the Conqueror of useless the (1967).

A college bears its name to Meylan, a sporting center with Antony as well as a base with Clécy

Biography

Birth the July 25th 1921 with Grenoble. Originating in an easy family which would have liked to see it progressing in other professions that of Guide of high mountain.

Its beginnings in Montagne are very early (with three years and half, he fits the Ski S for the first time). It will pass all its childhood and its adolescence to face the parental interdicts and those of the college to go to climb in mountain.

In the Years 1940, it settles as peasant in the valley of Chamonix.

It Marie in 1942 with a teacher of Saint-Gervais-the-Baths, and supplements the winter the incomes of the farm with the profits of the seasons of ski.

In 1941, it returns to Jeunesse and Montagne, formation military in which it meets Gaston Rébuffat.

The conversation led us to speak about our projects; his appeared completely extravagant to me! … Its design of the alpinism, now current, was very advances some over its time, and for me entirely new.

It takes part in the war with the famous Bataillon Stephan with ski on the face of Maurienne.

In 1945, the alpinism becomes all its life. He is instructor with the École of High mountain, then the winter skiing instructor and thereafter guide, a deeply considered choice in order to keep his independence and not to be under the finally free diktat of chiefs…!

Born with the foot from the Alps, former champion of the ski, guides professional, mountaineer of great race, member of eight forwardings in the Andes and the Himalayas, I devoted all my life to the mountain, and, if this word has a direction, I am a mountain dweller.

At that time, Lionel carries out its first races with Louis Lachenal, it is the beginning of great epopees on the largest faces of the the Alps and in particular the faces north of the Grandes Jorasses and the Eiger.

In 1946, Lionel Terray becomes instructor of ski to ENSA. Then, it leaves France for the Quebec then taking the cap of trainer of the national team of ski.

It returns to France in 1949, and settles finally like guides independent.

In 1950, it takes part in famous French forwarding with the Annapurna, at the sides of Maurice Herzog, Louis Lachenal, Gaston Rébuffat, Marcel Ichac (scenario writer), Jean Couzy, Marcel Schatz, Jacques Oudot (doctor), Francis de Noyelle (diplomatic), Adjiba (Sherpa).

The September 19th 1965, with his/her friend Marc Martinetti, Lionel Terray makes a deadly fall with the crack in Arc of Circle, with the Arêtes of Gerbier, in the Vercors.

So really no stone, no serac, no crack awaits me some share in the world to stop my race, one day will come where, old man and mow, I will be able to find peace among the animals and the flowers. The circle will be closed, finally I would be the simple shepherd that child I dreamed to become…

Alpine achievements

1942,

first of the north-eastern slope of the collar of the Caiman.
first of the western face of the Purtcheller needle.

1944,

first of the spur east-north-east of the Sugar loaf.
first opposite north the needle of the Pilgrims; and north of the collar of Peuterey with Maurice Herzog.

1946, northern spur of the Right-hand sides, with Louis Lachenal, in eight hours! And northern face of the Large Jorasses.
1947,

third of the northern face of nant white with the Green Needle.
second rise of the northern face of the Eiger with Lachenal.

June 3rd 1950: Lionel Terray takes part with his/her friend Louis Lachenal in French forwarding in the Annapurna. This last and Maurice Herzog will be first French to overcome a top of 8000m. But the central role played by Lionel Terray in this forwarding makes of him an example.
1952, Terray embarks for the Fitz-Roy. Rise of the Aconcagua.
1954, at the time of a recognition for the Makalu, success in Chomo Lönzo.
1955, success with the Makalu with Jean Couzy. The two days according to, the first at the top will see the whole of the members forwarding to arrive it on the summit. Team spirit!
1956, with the Peru, rise of the Nevado Chacraraju 6110 m; of Taullijaru 5830m.
1959, forwarding with the Jannu, stop with 7400m. In 1962, under the direction of Terray, success.

Works

Conquerors of useless the (1961).
Lionel Terray also carried out Films of mountain.

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