Leather - SpeedyLook encyclopedia

Types of leather

rawhide, green or believed: to speak about rawhide or green is an abuse language. When leather is rough or green, it is about the skin of the animal, resulting from the slaughter-house, untreated (tanned). So it would be more correct of speaking about raw hide.
leather of Russia: leather of Cow prepared and dyed in Russia with the odorous Sandal;
leather boiled: leather which one makes boil with various Substance S to manufacture Tabatière S, etc;
leather tanned with the vegetable tannins or the chromium;
wrought leather : that one obtains by immersing the skins in the Eau, by pressing them with the feet to soften them and by coating them then greasy substance, more used for the Cordonnerie;
the Morocco S: skins of Goat or Sheep tanned with the Sumac or the nut gall, the Relieur S use it much;
the mégissées skins : skins of Kid, Sheep or lamb made imputrescible S by means of marine salts and of Alum, employed in the Glove factory;
varnished leathers : wrought skins to which one applies several layers of a mixture of Craie out of powder, of Noir of smoke and of siccative oil ; after which one coats them with the Pinceau with a varnish.
the Crust of leather: thickness of skin obtained when one Partition leather to obtain the desired thickness (from where the term Splitting of leather). The piece of skin obtained, generally of the size (surface) of the skin of origin, does not have a flower, i.e. on smooth side. It is generally coated varnish or of Polyuréthane and " imprimée" to simulate a leather full flower.
leather of kangaroo: flexible, used for the manufacture of sport shoes, gloves of baseball, combination of motor bike.

Skin with Leather

Composition of the Skin

the skin consists of 3 layers:

skin; who is in contact with outside and who undergoes the aggressions.
the derm; who is the layer of alive cells, organized in a very tight fabric. they is the birthplaces of the hairs and or are present the nervous terminations.
the hypoderme, it is a layer of lubricating cells, it is a loose fabric, and which is directly in contact with the muscles.

Salting

The fresh skins will be salted in order to be preserved. The purpose of salting is to eliminate water from fabrics and thus to slow down the development of the micro-organisms present and their action of putrefaction. One uses coarse salt of mine of granulometry of 2 - 3 mms diameter to which one can add with the agents disinfectants. During salting, the skins can lose up to 10% of their water weight. The skins are piled up in order to facilitate the flow of the brine in a room with a humidity relative from 70% to 90%. The temperature is maintained in the neighborhoods of 10 ° C to improve the conservation of the skins.

Desalting

At the end of 15 days the skins are de-salted, the skins are examined with one and are sorted according to their thickness, of the number of defects of skin, the presence of scars, or according to their weight and of their surface. A good calfskin can be sold 30 €.

The “work of river”

Once the skin arrived at the tannery, it undergoes the “work of river” which is a succession of five operations.

steeping (or soaking): the skin D-is humidified to withdraw the impurities and the stains often with abdennor
the pelanage: the operation consists with the chemical withdrawal of the hairs thanks to the lime pits
fleshing: with this stage, one withdraws fabric under cutaneous mechanically
the confitage: the fabric residues under cutaneous are eliminated
pickling: at this stage, the skin is putrécible, to prepare it at the following stage and to preserve it, it is acidified and salted to withdraw water to him.

Tanning

The Tannage is the operation which consists in transforming the skin into leather thanks to Tanin S, substances of various natures (vegetable, mineral like salts of Chrome, organics) which make it possible to pass from a putrécible skin, sensitive to warm water and very hydrated with a matter imputrescible, resistant to warm water and little hydrated.

Welding finishing

Leather obtained will undergo the treatments necessary to its marketing, it undergoes drying to remove water still present to him, its thickness is conferred to him by the dérayage and the setting with the wind makes it possible to stretch it and correct the defects due to the folds.

Completion

To this stage, leather will acquire specific properties, in particular on texture, its aspect, etc These properties will make it possible to standardize leathers resulting from the production. According to the uses, one distinguishes finishing aniline, semi-aniline and pigmented finishing. Finishing aniline emphasizes the surface of leather by recovering it of a transparent product. It is a leather which has a very beautiful aspect, but whose maintenance requires an special attention. Leather semi-aniline is covered with a slightly opaque layer of pigment and with a translucent layer of product, which makes it possible to hide small defects. Pigmented leather is covered only with one opaque layer of pigments. It is easy of maintenance and is not very sensitive to water.

Uses of leather

This Matière is used in various fields:

the Saddlery;
the Leather working;
the Shoe manufacture;
the Saddlery;
the manufacture of Clothing S;
the Glove factory;
the Binding;
the manufacture of Piece of furniture S.

Phonetic leather

In Phonetic, the word leather indicates a “defect of language” which consists in pronouncing a T for a S or reciprocally, or to intercalate one or the other of these letters between two words without need, with the contempt of the rules of connection as Brassens did it, voluntarily or not, in the mouth of the " cendrillon" of its hunting for the butterflies (that one go-T-with hunting for the butterfly…)

Symbolic system

the Noces of leather symbolize the 2 years of Mariage in the French folklore.
leather is the 2nd level in the progression of the Sarbacane Sportive.

See too

Tawing

Simple: Leather

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