Jeans
The Blue-jeans (also called jean ) is a pants with seams cut in a fabric called Denim. Initially clothing of the American worker manuals at the end of the 19th century, become then clothing emblematic of the the United States, the daily port of the Jean is widespread today on all the Continent S and in all the social categories.
Traditionally, it comprises five pockets, a Braguette with stamped buttons, orange surpiqûres matched with the Cuivre of the Rivet S and a label of false leather bent with the size.
Passing from the Uniform statute of of the revolt in the Years 1960 with that of Held socially allowed nowadays, it knows a quick change and significant. In Europe, this Vêtement always was expensive than in its country of origin (price three to four times higher, difference not being explained at the beginning by materials or a more expensive labor, but by the customs taxes to which the product was subjected).
Very often if one excludes the attraction of his image legitimately associated with the America and his way of living (the American way off life), comfort and the robustness are probably the major assets which make it possible the pants as a Jean to resist the modes and to adapt to it.
Chronology of the Jeans
1853 : Into full Gold rush, an young man, Oscar Levi Strauss arrive in California with fabric of tent and covers of carriage. The conquerors of the West need solid pants. Levi Strauss with the idea to make of them one in the fabric of its tents. The jean was born. The first known Patron presents a Salopette crossed with buttons to adjust straps.1853-60 : Continuous Levi Strauss to manufacture its jean , but with Denim, a Coton manufactured with Nimes (from where the name denim = of Nimes ) in the south of the France by the Famille Andre, impregnated of baths of Indigo (what would make the jeans more comfortable).
1873 : Appearance of Surpiqûre S on the pockets postpones in arc (appearing a eagle of the Rocky Mountains symbolizing freedom), with wire orange. The same year appear the rivet pockets.
1874 : The jeans Levi Strauss start to be victims of their success. The Contrefaçon appears. Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis obtain the patent for the rivets on the men's trouserses in order to fix the corners of the pockets and to prevent them from tearing.
1886 : The patch in false leather appears.
1889 : The Lee Company is born, with the Kansas. 1890 : The 501 makes its appearance on the market.
1920 : Starting from 1920, many American farmers start to adopt the jean like behavior of work.
1922 : The passers by for the belt replace the buttons for the straps with the size.
1926 : Lee launches the jean to closing slide.
1929 : The America undergoes full whip the great crisis . The jean becomes l'" uniforme" adoptee by the peasants and the workers like the symbol of the combat and courage.
1933 : The rivet of the crotch is removed. Roosevelt lance the New Deal, for redynamiser the American economic machine. Tens of thousands of Salopette S out of denim are distributed to disinherited. 1935 : The jean becomes the product mode of a student's and artistic population. The rivets of the pockets postpones are removed. Levi's launches its first publicities.
1945 : The jean unloads in Europe with GI 'S. the firm Levi Strauss signed an agreement with the ministry for Defense and manufactures the uniform of permissions of the Marines of the U.S. Navy which consists of a Levi's 501 of a darker color.
1948 : Introduction of the first jean for woman: the zipper is on the front and not on the side. It has a side zipper, because frontal closing is not accepted yet for the women at the time. The size high and is adjusted, the round hips, and the slightly narrowed and tapered legs. 1950 : The jean symbolizes the revolt of the young generation. One associates it with the black Blouson and in Harley, it is the phenomenon teenagers and it will be even prohibited in the schools in the United States. It is carried by James Dean and Marlon Brando.
1960 : Until in the Years 1960, the model of the jeans does not evolve/move. It is the movement Hippie S which will launch the first evolutions: variation of colors, form, cut, embroidery, ornamentations, patching, frayed, etc
1969 : A half-million people, those of the coils generation are found with Woodstock the time of a mythical festival, undoubtedly the largest gathering in the world of carriers of jean.
1970 : Vestimentary code and symbol of the generation Hippie: jean leg of elephant . During years 60-70, the years hippies, the Jean changes more and more. It customize, one it is painted, one embroiders it, one sews shells and many other things above. One puts at it strasses, jewels, flowers, reasons “peace and coils”. The bottom of the leg lengthens: it is the birth of the “legs of eph”, of legs of elephant, which will return several times later to the mode. Each one has its own customized Jean.
1972 : The C17 jeans are created by André Desseilles, with Castelnaudary, in the Aude. C17 will spend 15 years to become the second distributer of jean in Europe, behind Levi's, since the mark will diffuse up to 3 million articles per annum. At that time, the C17 group as a whole will reach 700 franc million of turnover.
1973 : The France enters the crisis, with the oil crisis. The jean is essential like a good of very great consumption. The market develops exponentially until the beginning of the Années 1980. In New York, the museum of contemporary art exposes for two months a selection of trimmed jeans and attracts 10 000 visitors.
1978 : Appearance of the stone-washed , a treatment which consists in bombarding fabric of small stones pounces.
1981 : The French market reaches a maximum, with 40 confused denim, part million sold per annum, fabric and velvets.
1984/85 : The jean moves back, with the profit of the slacks, the lighter and more equipped pants of fabric. The collapse of the jean is such a phenomenon that the media seize some.
1986 : The jean reconsiders little by little the front of the scene. It is essential like a product of mode on whole share.
1990 : Appearance of the surteint which renews the jean and gives him a blow of young person.
1994 : The enormous vagueness of the Lycra submerges the jean. The five pockets élastis is a very large success, especially near the women. It is they, moreover which instigate the market.
1996 : For the first time in France, the women buy as much jean appreciably than the men.
1997 : The great return of the rough jean which becomes the new product of mode par excellence.
2000 : With a turnover of more than 100MF (15 M€) Rica Lewis becomes number one of the jean on the market of large distribution.
2002 : Turnover of 28 M€. Rica Lewis consolidates her place of leader on the market (10% of market shares - source SECODIP).
2006 : A company of Italian clothes industry under the Arab label Al-Quds (Jerusalem in Arabic) launched a model of jean conforms specifically for the Moslem pious men. Having like characteristic of a broad cut to allow them prosterner at the time of the prayer. Novel mode in 2006: the Jean skinny. He goes tight and marries ankle.
2007 : Today the Jean is not only any more one clothing utility, but an identity sign of membership of a tribe, a community. By form (the slim, the boot cut, the relaxed one, the regular, etc) or by mark (levi' S, diesel, notify, acquaverde, pepe jean, etc), each one affirms its singularity and its originality, at the same time its rallying with a social stereotype through the port of the Jean.
The way traversed between the fabric cut in the shape of pants carried by the pioneer and creations of the largest designers carried by the men and the richest and famous women of planet is enormous. However, the Jean did not change customers, it just widened his customers: today still, the most stripped jeans carry, only, they are not the same ones. Which customers for which jeans currently? Knowing that one can find jeans with to 10 € as with 250 € for overmeasures at Bodymetrics or with more than 900 € for jeans of mark such as Dior; it is imagined that it has there customers adapted to each section of price of Jean.
Types of jean
- Black , the indigo wire is replaced by a black wire;
- Bleached , bleached with bleaching agents;
- Gross , at the natural state (white unbleached);
- Stone washed , washing out with stones pounces, developed in the Years 1980;
- Stone bleached , washing out with stones pounces and enzymes of bleaching;
- Surteint , originally blue Jean dyed in black, is practiced from now on with practically all the colors in surteinte;
- Used , Jean aged by sanding.
Sources
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