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Châteaulin is a common French, located in the department of the Finistere and the area Brittany. Its name Breton is Kastellin .

Geography

Châteaulin is located at the center of the Finistere, on two banks of the channeled Aulne (Canal from Nantes to Brest). It is between Quimper in the south and Brest in north. To the West, the hills of the Carry out-Hom separate it from the Presqu'île of Crozon and bay of Douarnenez.

Communes bordering

Administration

Twinnings

History

Prehistoric time

The many monuments megalithic that one finds in Brittany (alignments, Menhir S, Dolmen S, Cromlech S, tumulus) testify to the human presence during the prehistoric period.

In the area of Châteaulin, several monuments were thus discovered. Mr. H. Pellay studied into 1928 alignments of Carry out-Kelc' H (mounts of the circle) located on the commune of Cast. The menhirs which constitute these alignments are blocks of Schiste from 2 to 3 meters length whereas the basement consists of Armorican sandstone. These blocks were thus transported.

Carry out-Hom was prospected by many researchers: Of Châtellier, Of Fretay, Whips, the Commander Devoir. According to Doctor Vourch, “the existing number of tombelles and tumuli in Carry out-Hom is such as only the image of vast necropolis returns with exactitude the felt impression”. The tombelles ones are disseminated St-Gildas mount (close to Châteaulin) to the mountain of Argol.

Paul of Châtelier announces a dolmen to Kerluan and a tumulus to 2 km in the North-East of Châteaulin. Prehistoric vestiges frequently meet in the neighbouring communes, as in Cast or Dinéault.

Times Gallic and Roman

At the time Gallic, the Osismes, very powerful tribe, occupied about the current territory of Finistere. The only vestiges which they left, are a camp with triple enclosure in the mountain of Locronan (length 422 m).

After the victory of César over Vénètes, Publius Crasus, fearing a new revolt, equipped Brittany of camp and transportation routes innumerable and stations military.

Because of the strategic position of Châteaulin, located between Carhaix-Plouguer (center of the Roman occupation in Low-Brittany) and almost the islands of Crozon and the Cape Sizun, the Romans established a station on the hillock of the castle. The discovery of tiles with edge and bricks testifies to this Roman occupation.

Two Roman ways passed by Châteaulin:

  • the strategic road (via militaris) connecting Mans to Camaret by Rennes and Carhaix, crossed the Alder on a ford at the level of the current bridge;
  • the local road (via vicinalis) on the basis of Châteaulin (or of Carhaix) for the peninsula of the Cape Sizun. It is estimated that it passed by Cast and finished with bay of the departeds where remain of curious remains of Roman constructions.

These ways made it possible Armorique to take part in the general prosperity of the Empire.

The Holy priory Idunet

The statue embedded in the wall of the carpark of the presbytery is only testimony with Châteaulin of the priory, which depended on the Abbaye of Landévennec.

It represents a lion seen of profile and holding between the legs before a blazon with the hammered weapons. An contiguous stone carries the following inscription: Mr. LOLASULIEN PRIOR: CHAULIN 1589. This statue was at the top of the pinion is old house priorale.

History

Towards 485, Saint Guénolé builds its monastery with the mouth of the Alder. Towards 500, whereas it goes up banks of the river named Hamn to the mountain called Nin, it meets a saint man of the name of Idunet. This last made him gift of the grounds that it had received from king Gradlon, namely “the trève of Dinan, the trève of Cuhin, Caer, Choc, Lan-lunctat, half of Gumenech”. One anything else does not know about Idunet, that the local church honors like saint and usually represents as a deacon… He was called upon formerly for the apple abundance, one gave him in offerings cider barrels. He had his fountain, from which one drew water to sprinkle the apple trees which did not bear fruit…

The date of the foundation of the priory is not known, it would be at XIIe century, within a framework of religious reconquest. The part played by the monks at that time on the commune and its surroundings remains unknown. In XVe century, the monks give up the functions curiales with the secular clergy but preserve the goods and the incomes attached to the priory.

The last prior of Châteaulin, Dom Pierre Lemoyne, was also prior of the abbey of Landévennec, which at the end of the XVIIIe century counted nothing any more but three monks. The revolution of 1789 involved the disappearance of the latter and the priory of Châteaulin. The house priorale, become property of Mr. Bois, was sold with the commune in 1824 to be used as presbytery.

The Castle

Few people know that Châteaulin was equipped with a castle and yet, about the heights of the city, close to the carpark of the old people's home, remain some ruins and in particular a tower.

The hillock that enclosed the Alder and of the ponds constituted a natural site of defense. To preserve invasions and to keep the way of penetration of the city of the Alder, a mound seigneuriale, made up of a ground hillock was built surrounded by ditches. The Counts of Cornwall built there a strong castle with Xe century. When the comtale family of Cornwall inherits in 1066 the ducal crown, the châtellenie of Châteaulin enters the ducal field.

At the end of the 10th century, to support the rise of the city around the strong castle, the dukes of Brittany had established the institution of “Agreeing to the Duke Frankly”: the serf who left his lord could not be continued if it took refuge in Châteaulin and remained there during one year and a day without leaving there.

In 1373, the castle was set fire to by the English before their departure in front of the projection of the royal army of Of Guesclin. It was never rebuilt; its ruins were used as career for construction of houses and even at the time of the enlarging of the Notre-Dame vault.

In 1689, the castle and its mound were given to Yves Bauguion, priest serving of Notre-Dame to install an old people's home there. Today, the old people's home left the place to an old people's home.

The Wall of the devil

Towards 1250, Jean the Russet-red, duke of Brittany, surrounds the grounds of the ducal field of Châteaulin of a 32 kilometers long wall. One does not know the finality first this important work. Certain historians think that this park made it possible to defend the ducal possessions against the claims of the close abbeys.

This wall, of which there remain still some sections, was composed of a dry stone low wall of approximately 2,30 meters. It left the strong castle of Châteaulin and included part of the grounds of Cast, Briec, Châteaulin and the totality of the parish of Saint-Coulitz. At one unspecified time, the park of Châteaulin became an administrative unit whose Saint-Coulitz was the administrative center. During centuries, this wall did not cease intriguing the peasants of the area. A legend was born according to which it would be the devil which would have built it in one night. This wall became the wall of the devil or “moguer year diaoul” into Breton.

The bridge of Châteaulin

Until XIIIe century, one crossed the Alder with ford. There were several fords: in Rodaven, the ford Rodoe-swallow-hole (passage of the river); in the borough, Rodo-Los-Strat (passage of the bottom of the way).

The construction of the bridge of Châteaulin would date from XIIIe century. Of a length of 217 feet and a width of 14, the bridge spanned the river in ten arches unequal lengths, coarsely built out of schistous stones united with clay… The too low vaults were blocked in period of raw and caused the flood of the low districts of the city. On its face upstream, there were 7 spurs. On five of between-them houses were built. The roadway of the bridge was paved. Parapets bordered it on both sides safe in the center on the side upstream. The whole was equipped with ivies and undergrowth.

It is not certain that this bridge is the work of the monks of Landévennec, but that which one is sure, it is that the prior of Châteaulin was owner, as well as dwellings. This last charged a right of toll on the animals and the goods. The collection of this duty was to be used partly for maintenance of the bridge, but the successive priors were unaware of this obligation.

Finally, the bridge is partially destroyed by a rising, on December 25th, 1821. Mr Bois, rich owner, the fact then of rebuilding with its expenses, but in the condition that he is dealer of the right of toll during 7 years. The Municipal council is not very enthusiastic, but not having an other solution the proposal accepts.

January 1st, 1824, Mr Bois begins the collection of his duty of toll. But as of on January 8th, day of fair, crowd protests, it is a true popular riot which bursts. The mayor must utilize a company of acrobats to put an end to the disorders… Finally certain farmers give up the fairs and markets and the commercial businesses of the city fall from half.

In July 1824, the population revolts again… and the Mayor decides to refer to the Minister about it. The business was taken into account since the State gave 60.000 francs to satisfy the Bois family. The commune paid the remainder.

In August 1944, the bridge was mined by the Germans before their departure for the Peninsula of Crozon. It is amongst other things thanks to the intervention of Emile Bénéat and Sebastien Duval that the bridge and the city were saved. With the assistance of Châteaulinois, they déminèrent the bridge and threw the mines in the channel.

Salmon fisheries

On the Alder, at the level of the current post office, important fisheries of Saumon S were installed (to 4000 salmons per annum). It had been given at the end of the 11th century to the abbey of Landévennec by the Duke of Brittany, Alain IV, say Alain Fergent. To the 17th century, it belonged to the king who, with the mills, had afféagés them for the sum of 4.500 books.

The salmon was reproduced on the Sceau of Châteaulin and one called Châteaulinois " PEN Eog" , i.e. " heads of saumons".

The fisheries were destroyed in 1816, during the digging of the channel.

Châteaulin, seat of a royal seneschalsy

Old ducal bar, Châteaulin became after the fastening of the Duchy to the Kingdom of France in 1532, the seat of a royal Sénéchaussée from which the jurisdiction extended on 27 parishes. The audience and the jail were with the current site of the court, street of the church. Many jurisdictions seigneuriales returned their justice in the low room of the audience. The legal activity involved the presence of many men of law.

The chaplaincy of Templiers

The chaplaincy of Kerjean was founded by the Templiers which were established in Brittany in 1130. It depended on the Commanderie of Quimper, which it even depended on that of Feuillée.

The chaplaincy included/understood a charitable house, a vault known as of Midsummer's Day and some behaviors. It was intended to receive the pilgrims. The establishment was also opened to the poor and to the patients. It is there the origin of the village of Kerjean.

The vault became the center of an important pilgrimage, Saint Jean-Baptiste being called upon for the cure of the diseases of the sight. The feastday of Midsummer's Day, the parishes of Dinéault and Saint-Coulitz came, banners at the head, to attend forgiveness.

The vault was a Gothic church with transept and apse, paved " stones vertes" and whose Campanile sheltered only one bell.

In the middle of the 17th century the vault of Midsummer's Day was in a state of outdatedness confining with the abandonment. Since more than one century the resources of the Chevaliers of Malta did not enable them any more to maintain the house… The chaplaincy and its dependences were yielded to the perpetual vicar of Châteaulin which entrusted them to a priest of the parish. In 1637, the chaplain of Kerjean made contruire a house presbytérale.

Under the revolution, the vault was used as store of salpètre. It was sold like national good. About 1836 a fire consumed it. Its stones were used for the construction of a house at the village of Pennarun.

In the Fifties, there remained of the house presbytérale only four walls invaded by grasses.

The revolt of the stamped paper

It is in a difficult economic context that starts in 1675, the Révolte of the stamped paper. The population is overpowered by the rise of the taxes. From 1664 to 1675, twelve new taxes are created to provide for the needs for Louis XIV. This last indeed launched great work which should be financed (colossal building site of the Château of Versailles, creation of sumptuous gardens by Ours…). The wars against Spain or Holland (1672 - 1679) require to mobilize funds.

In 1673, a stamped paper is thus required for all “notarial and legal act”, in 1674, the state monopoly on the sale of the tobacco as well as a trade-mark law on the tin crockery are founded. There were no protests at the beginning. But in April 1675, a wind of revolt, born with Bordeaux, is propagated quickly in Nantes, then in Rennes. The movement gains the basic campaigns Brittany, Pontivy, Carhaix, Châteaulin, where the castles were besieged and plundered.

In Nantes, it is Goulven Salaün, low-Breton surroundings of Châteaulin which gave the signal by sounding the alarm bell to the clock of the city.

In Cornwall, the advertisement of the arrival of the marquis of Coste, lieutenant of the king charged to found the Gabelle (tax on salt), makes the effect of a provocation (it is called " Large Gabeleur”).

Thus, the morning of June 9th, 1675, the alarm bell sounds in Châteaulin and in more than thirty parishes of the surroundings. The revolt was going to last more than 3 months.

The morning of June 9th, crowd gathers on the place with the villages (with corns) of Châteaulin. The seneshal of Châteaulin, Mr. de Tréouret has evil to calm the spirits, when a great silence is established. The marquis of Coste arrives by Main street with his continuation. Apostrophized violently through a sergeant who seems to be with the head of the movement, the lieutenant of the king for Low-Brittany passes his sword to him through the body. Exasperated population car several shots. The Marquis of Coste, wounded with the shoulder, takes refuge in a close house. Besieged, it is solved to capitulate and promises the revocation of the known as edicts.

One does not know exactly the number of peasants mobilized at the time of this revolt. According to a letter of the Duc of Chaulnes, five or six hundreds of mutinés want to break the bridges to prevent than one goes to them

This revolt was one of bloodiest of the history of Brittany. But the cities disunited country movement. It will be one of the weaknesses of the Revolt of the Stamped paper, also called Révolte of the red Bonnets in reference to the color of the bonnets which the peasants wore…

18th century

In first half of the 18th century, Châteaulin with the aspect of a large borough. The city includes/understands hardly a hundred houses of which more half resembles more thatched cottages or huts.

On the other hand, it has two churches: Saint-Idunet who has just been rebuilt in 1691 and Notre-Dame who fall in ruins. The body politic issuing that Notre-Dame is the parish church decides that repairs must be done quickly. But the Benedictines of Landévennec are not of this opinion. They claim with the perpetual vicar, the title of parish church in favor of the church of the priory. The business lasted 9 years and it is only on October 8th, 1724, which the court of Rennes gave reason to the Benedictines…

Sixty years after, the city evolved/moved little. Jacques Cambry, in “Voyage in Finistere, or State of this department in 1794 and 1795”, us makes a not very flattering description of it: “Châteaulin does not have a hospital, not public fountain, not of markets, not of barracks… all the streets are to be repaired, the houses to be raised… The too narrow bridge of the city, badly built, makes run great risks to all the cars. The inhabitants ruin themselves, the slate trade is stopped, the entirely destroyed salmon fisheries… ”.

On the other hand, the Revolution passed by there: in 1793, all that points out the past must be destroyed. The Républicain calendar replaced the Grégorien calendar. In Châteaulin they is the 25 Brumaire (November 15th) which one begins the transformation: Châteaulin takes the plebeian name of VILLE-SUR-AULNE. The city will find its name later a few years.

19th century

In the years 1860, in spite of some improvements (construction of the new bridge, recent installation of the quays, construction of the station of Orleans…), Châteaulin always resembles a large borough. It does not have important buildings and even less markets. The streets are narrow and dirty… The small church of Idunet saint and that of Notre-Dame are in very bad condition…

But as from 1865, a series of work considerably will modify the face of Châteaulin, which will more take the features of a city worthy of this name and worthy of a sub-prefecture.

The first of the achievements is the construction of a market hall, near the place of the market.

Then, one puts a roof at the market with corn, if at the time attended. This corn exchange was then integrated during the construction of the new town hall.

The church Idunet saint in very bad condition was rebuilt in 1869, in the neo-gothic style in the fields of the Bigot architect.

It is at this period that schools are born. In 1867, a room of asylum is built at the end of the alley of Kerstrat, as well as the school Louis saint. One year later, a boarding school for young girls, held by the Sisters of the Holy Spirit, opens its doors in the district of the Plain.

The channel from Nantes to Brest was built to free Brest by the back country. Started in 1810, work was completed in Châteaulin by the inauguration of the maritime lock of Guilly-Knell and the wet dock by Napoleon III and the Eugenie Empress, in 1858.

Economy under the Second Empire

Under the Second Empire, the dominant activity of Châteaulin remains industry salte quarry. It employs a hundred carriers in the careers of Lostang, the castle, the Great Career… But this situation unfortunately will not last. Indeed, the channel from Nantes to Brest, which initially made it possible this industry to develop, will carry damage to him, since the extraction can be now made much upstream, on Lothey, Châteauneuf…

Agriculture is the second large employer, but the situation of the days laborer is precarious, since work is seasonal worker.

Downtown, one finds especially small shops: butchers, bakers, pharmacists, innkeepers… With the latter the professions related to the presence of the magistrates' court are added: judges, lawyers, solicitors, clerks… They constitute, with the doctors and some large merchants, the middle-class châteaulinoise.

The arrival of the railroad and the Breton network

It is into 1864 that is carried out the construction of the line Nantes/Quimper/Landerneau by the Compagnie of the railroad from Paris to Orleans. It is of this period that date the viaduct of Kerlobret and the station which one calls the station of Orleans. A few years later, it is connected with the line of the Breton Réseau, coming from Carhaix.

It is with an aim of putting an end to the insulation of Center-Brittany, which suffered from an obvious lack of transportation routes, that was decided at the end of the XIXe century the construction of a railway network to narrow gauge railway (one meter broad way). It is the Compagnie of the railroads of the West which dealt with work which was spread out of 1886 to 1925, but by convention of March 5th, 1886, she entrusted the exploitation of it to the General society of the Economic Railroads (S.E.). Thus was born the Breton Network.

In August 1906, the Carhaix line/Châteaulin-city is brought into service between Pleyben and Châteaulin-city parks it. But connection between Châteaulin city and the station of Orleans will be done only in 1907, after the construction of the viaduct of the center town, in 1906. The connection between the two stations is inaugurated on December 15th, 1907.

The small train was used with transport of passengers and goods, in particular with the agricultural goods. After the second world war, golden age of the production of potato seedlings, one to three trains left Châteaulin every evening, filled with potatoes.

In the Sixties, the depopulation of the campaigns, the development of the individual motorization, are two of the reasons of the financial degradation of the Breton Network… In September 1967, it is the effective closing of the lines Carhaix/Châteaulin and Carhaix/Loudéac marking the end of the Breton Network.

The railroad thus allowed the economic development of the area. In addition to potato, one dispatched corn, cattle, slate… and one imported coal and marine manure.

Châteaulin, 3rd electrified city of France

Châteaulin was the 1st city electrified of the West and of France after Bourganeuf in the Hollow one and Mende in Lozere. The hydroelectric factory was built on left bank of the channel from Nantes to Brest, in Coatigrac' H, on the commune of Saint-Coulitz by the “Company Châteaulinoise d' Eclairage Electric” whose Sirs Armand Chauvel, Armand Gassis and Gustave Benoist were administrators. The factory supplied 300 lamps, 35 public lanterns by a network of ten kilometers…

March 20th, 1887, the electric factory is inaugurated in large pump. 9 with 10  000 people would have attended this great festival where many distractions were offered: horse-races on the roads of Port-Launay and Quimper, concert by the municipal music, dances with the bagpipe, lighting of the lamps of the subscribers, banquet to the corn exchange gathering 200 guests… The festival ended in a fireworks.

The 20th century

Châteaulin during was associated very a long time with the bicycle with the Circuit of the Alder, with fishing with salmon, potato and the postcard with the editions Jos Doaré.

It is true that the small race of forgiveness, created in the Thirties per Bertrand Like, impassioned the inhabitants of the surroundings. The spectators came from all the department, even moreover far, to admire the great names of cycling French, but also the large ones of international cycling. What was the largest critérium of the area was replaced in 1999 by “the Loops of the Alder - Grand Prix the Telegram”, professional race UCI.

In addition to this passion for cycling, many are the followers of fishing and more particularly of fishing to salmon. Even if the catches are much fewer than in the past, a hundred salmons are still fished in the Alder, each year during the season.

The Jos company, installed on the edges of the Alder for more than 100 years, has diffused its postcards on the whole of Brittany. Today, the charts carried out by the family Doaré are very often witness the one time old which is not so old and which however appears to us well far. The company knew to diversify with the sale of greetings cards, charts messages, posters, books, comic strips.

When one speaks about Châteaulin, one also thinks very often of potato. It is indeed in the area of Châteaulin and Porzay that the production strongly developed. It has thus made in the Fifties richness of certain peasants, which could be made build beautiful residences and buy “tractions” which were called “Beauvais”, in reference to potato of the same name.

These some “symbols” should not hide the true face of the small city which largely developed with the arrival of the four ways in 1976. Châteaulin knew to benefit from its strategic geographical location (between Brest and Quimper) by creating 4 zones of activities which allowed the creation of more than 2000 employment.

The company Doux (1st poulterer of Europe) was one of the first to be established on the zone of Lospars in 1981. Kritsen (manufacture of elaborate products of the sea) and the Mill of Walk (trout and salmon smoking), established later, in the zone of rear Run puns came to confirm the importance of agribusiness industry with Châteaulin. Several shipping companies also chose to settle in Châteaulin for its central situation.

During the XXe century, the sub-prefecture of the edges of the Alder knew to reinforce its role of administrative city with the installation of the industry and Chamber of commerce, Perception, Room Tax office of agriculture, of the antenna of the General advice, the House of the use or of the Departmental Center of Social action or the Orientation and Social Information center…

In addition to this administrative office, Châteaulin is a town of services and trade: banks, insurances, bakeries, grocers… simplify with the daily newspaper the life of Châteaulinois.

This expansion was not done without efforts. Indeed, at the beginning of the XXe century, Châteaulin lived primarily of potato. Demography in fall of 1911 to 1931, remained stagnant or almost until in the Fifties. The successive municipalities got busy to make of Châteaulin, a true administrative and economic center.

To allow this development, it was necessary to stress housing. From 1940 to 1972, more than 540 houses were thus built. Allotment of the street of the Gorses created in 1972, with the development of the sector of Quimill, these last years it are more than 1300 residences which were carried out.

The schools belong to the structuring elements of the economy châteaulinoise. After the war, they are numerous to have been born. Châteaulin has nursery schools and primary, colleges, colleges, formations post-vat which accommodate more than 3000 pupils (2500 young people in 1967).

For the needs for school and those of the population, Châteaulin obtained gradually since the Sixties sports equipment: Stage Eugene Piriou (1961), Gymnasium Herve-Mao (1966), public swimming pool glaze and heated (1972), Stage of Park Bihan (1977); ground of Rugby (1982); Gymnasium Marie Curie (1990)…

Thanks to associations, true richness for the commune, one can practice many sports with Châteaulin: handball, oar, kayak, game of bowls, sports of combat, diving, football, Rugby, cycling, table tennis, etc These associations for a few years have been gathered within a Municipal Office of the Sports.

Religious organizations

Created in the Sixties ten, the House For All took a new rise after its installation in its new buildings, Alba quay, in 1985. It develops its activities in various fields, and passes in a few years of 150 to nearly 1000 members. In 1986, it obtains to approval “Social center” of the CIF.

It is also in the Sixties ten, that rear Run puns, café concert opened its doors. The concerts follow one another it with in the first years a preference for the jazz… Today, Run accommodates a diversity of artists going from traditional to electro while passing by evenings sets of themes.

With the beginning of the year 1980, the municipality created a music school and opens in 1989 a library.

This table, it is necessary to add the medical and hospital function of the city. In 1954, the Kerfriden family creates a neuropsychiatric private clinic of center town and opens in September 1959 the Center of rear Toul Hoat, specialized in the reception of the young epileptics.

In April 1960, the new buildings of the Old people's home are completed. This Old people's home, which gradually increased and especially very modernized, became from an Old people's home.

To face the new request for reception of nondependant people reprocessed, a Hearth housing for elderly is created in 1985.

The purpose of the Celtic circle Alc' houederien Kastellin is to collect, safeguard and diffuse the songs, dances and musics of the area of Châteaulin. Its seat is with the town hall. It was created in 1956, and evolves/moves in first category of the confederation Kendalc' H.

Famous characters

Tourist monuments and places

  • Vault Notre-Dame
  • Church Saint-Idunet
  • Vault of Lospars
  • Vault Notre-Dame de Kerluan
  • the viaduct in curve, built at the beginning of the 20th century. It spans the channel and dominates the city and gives a beautiful point of view.
  • Anciennes salte quarries (stroll and arranged view-points)
  • a watery observatory allows a descent under the channel of the Alder (observation of white fish, and in particular of salmons at the time of their migration).

Jean Moulin College-college

  • optional and obligatory Option of DRAMATIC THEATER/EXPRESSION

  • annual Exchanges with the German pupils of Grimmen

Economy

The city is the seat of the Soft Groupe which has important there to abbatoir poultry.

It dipose also of an antenna of the Chamber of commerce and industry of Brest.

External bonds

  • Geography of Brittany, gate of the cities and countries Breton - Châteaulin/Kastellin

  • Official site of the town of Châteaulin/Kastellin

  • Official site of the Friendly Layman Châteaulin Handball (ALCHB)

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