It is generally considered that there exist two phases in the history of the costume . The first corresponds to the period known as of the impersonal costume , of the origins at the 14th century. Open then that of the costume known as personalized .

Through 10.000 years of human history, the vestimentary methods are reduced to five prototypes:

  • the costume draped : consisting in the rolling up of a skin or a roll of material around the body (Egyptian Shenti, Loincloth, Greek Himation or Paréo tahitien)
  • the costume threaded : fact of a part (of skin or fabric) perforated to allow the passage of the head and shoulders (Paenula Roman, Huque of the Middle Ages, Mexican Poncho)
  • the costume bent and closed : composed of several assembled rolls of material and comprising handles (chiton Greek, Ionian Tunic, Gandourah, Blouse and shirt)
  • the costume bent and opened : composed of several rolls of material assembled in the direction length, crossed on the front and superimposed with other clothing (Asian Caftan, European Frock coat)
  • the costume sleeve : adjusted close to the body, especially with the legs, ancestor of the pants and Wandering part of typical costume of the riders and the S, ever carried only and composing a binomial with the caftan which is complementary for him.

These vestimentary prototypes could be mixed thereafter with the course history, but they did not follow one another in time; they were invented each one in their area of origin according to the practices and the manners of living people which created them.

Origin

It is still difficult to determine if the costume precedes or not the Habillement (heard like port of Vêtement S given full details according to their utility). The Old ones, the such Greeks or the Chinese, thought that the Man was vêtu to protect itself from the climate, while the Bible as the ethnologists our contemporaries evoked psychological reasons: decency for the first, the Taboo S and the magic for the seconds. The tribes living the Earth of Fire in the extreme south of the American continent to the sub-Arctic climate discovered almost naked, and coated with seal blubber to guarantee rigor of the climate, at the beginning of the 20th century, would seem to give reason as well to the Bible as with the modern researchers. Undoubtedly the two reasons evoked here had as much importance and the costume had other reasons that exclusively utilities. The desire to like should however only have intervened rather tardily, have been dressed, in addition to with the strictly utility motivations, probably had above all the reasons magico-nuns.

The costume during the Prehistory

The Clothing S of Leather or Fourrure were probably the first to be carried. As of the Paleolithic means, with the Moustérien, the work of leather is attested by the traceologic analyzes stone tools cut.

With the Paleolithic superior, trade flows could be highlighted for the Silex but also for the Ambre and the Coquillage S, testifying to the taste for the Parure. With the Solutréen (- 22 with - 17.000 years BP), the first needles with eye in bone testify to elaborate techniques of seam. Clothing during the cold periods of the Paleolithic superior was perhaps similar to that of the Eskimo S.

In the hot and moderate countries, the men were more decorated than vêtus. The skins and fur skins were however also used, more to undoubtedly be used as mask-sex of protection. This original Pagne will perdurera during millenia, in fabric thereafter.

The ornamentation, so much in the moderated or hot cold zones than, originated certainly in of the spiritual reasons: to specify the statute of an individual (groom or single person), his tribal classification, to allure by attracting sympathy. The reasons magico-nuns were to also have a great importance: to carry certain attributes is equivalent being identified with an animal, Totem of the clan, or with a god. Very early, the purpose of the costume thus was to express and express feelings: correspondent with a certain power it is used to express a certain richness. The power and the richness merging, the costume indicates the caste and fortune, the social status and the authority.

The Tissage had to appear in the zones moderated on the model of the Vannerie starting from vegetable matters as of the Neolithic . The primitive fabric S were of very small dimension. Narrow bands were bent together to constitute a clothing. As the weaving looms improve, the fabric parts will become larger.

Body painting (as at the indigenous S Australian) was to hold a big part of the costume as an ornamentation. One knows that the Ocre red was very much used during practically all the Paleolithic one where it is as universal as omnipresent (the red ground is present in the majority of the burials), a little less with the Neolithic era. The colors used as one could identify starting from the Aurignacien are the Jaune, the Rouge and the Mauve which appear as well in North Africa as in septentrional Europe. The dyes used for the dyeings starting from the Neolithic era were mainly extracted from the plants: the blue ones were obtained starting from the Aulne or from the Sureau, the mauves of the Myrtille S, the yellow of the Réséda. The grounds were useful for the Ocre S.

Origin of the prototypes

The first type of woven primitive clothing is the draped , quasi universally considered that of the autochtones, compared to clothing made , considered a contribution of the invaders. They are there two opposite principles of the clothing of all times.

Areas of the plains

They are the interior regions of low or low altitude of the Mésopotamie, the Arabique peninsula, the Palestine and the Syria. The costume of the pre-Aryan ages oldest of minor Asia is without question that of Sumer and Akkad and was front door thousand-year-old IIIe of the Persian Gulf in the Mediterranean. It was about a Pagne intended to cover the hips and falling to semi-leg, initially in skin turned over then in fabrics.

The Loincloth - Underskirt in Kaunakès of the sumériens, Fur or fabrics with wicks (to point out the original fur) is a male costume, undoubtedly that of the priests; it is illustrated on many statuettes. The men carry a Châle in underskirt, whose side is brought back on the shoulder.

The women carry a Tunique to short sleeves and over also a shawl draped in form of dress whose fringes (plain then with nipples) fall down while following rolling up around the body. This shawl is found in the Indian Sari later on and until our days. They also carry a coat in kaunakès. They are capped in Chignon; some statuettes give the impression that some carry false hairstyles.

The skins continue to be carried by the two sexes.

The Akkadiens, Semitic people different from Sumériens and not speaking the same language, however entirely adopt the primitive costume sumérien which they enrich and tend to emphatiser. As a whole, the assyro-Babylonian costume knows an evolution (the fabrics are richly decorated and coloured) but will not be primarily different. The male hairstyles are worked out however, the hair is carried long and curly to iron as well as the beard in regular waves. The taste of the ornament is manifest, the jewel X, many, weigh down, hanging ears, collar S with several rows made up of Amulette S, are carried by the two sexes. Men as women are commonly fitted of Sandale S leaving the top of the discovered foot, laced with ankle, the big toe passing in a ring. The Chaussure closed makes its appearance, introduced by the populations of the mountains.

Towards -1.200, an Assyrian law orders to the married women to leave buckled.

In thousand-year-old IIIe, the supremacy of civilization sumérienne formed for several centuries already has seen radiating its culture and its vestimentary mode as far as minor Asia and in Syria, vis-a-vis Cyprus, and from there in the Cyclades. More in the south until Byblos, the vestimentary influence sumérienne is attested.

Coastal regions

Variable altitude, they are primarily the areas of the the Eastern Mediterranean and the edges of the Black Sea, but of others too. It is only starting from the invasion Dorien and of the migrations which it causes that the Ionian colonies form a powerful and homogeneous group. The costume of the coastal populations of the Black Sea until the Oronte seems at the beginning not to have been very different from the costume sumérien in its mountain alternative brought by the Hittites such as the long sleeves of the pastors. From - 1.300 with - 1.700, the cultural block that Troy forms, the Phrygie and the Carie, although carrying a clothing specific to the Greeks, largely adopt the Eastern vestimentary uses originating in Mésopotamie. This adoption and this mixture were facilitated by the greatest freedom of the women of Asia. The Ionian ones share the life of the men and take their meal with them. Those are not buckled, and those of the easy classes carry fabric tunics of hemp pink and transparent, embroidered of gold. Expensive the Pourpre is very required so much so that the Phénicien S will seek more in the west and the die of the Pillars of Hercules the invaluable dyeing of which they do not manage any more to satisfy the request. It is in Ionie that the Greeks take the practice to fold clothing. Undoubtedly, the Ionian fashion was sumptuous, index of a company knowing a certain opulence.

The men carry the short Tunique of flax. This one is a Sous-vêtement , closed on a side by a Couture. Phéniciens propagated in their wake all the fashions and of all the influences met; it was them to transmit this tunic, of which they were probably the inventors, to the cariens. It was carried at the time in all Asia Mineure. It can be long for the festivals: it is the khiton Greeks, taken again kitoneh , Semitic word indicating the flax in Araméen. Homère could thus speak about the Ionian ones trailing their tunic . The women also carried this tunic in its long version, fastening themselves on a side by a Fibule, hardly different from that which the women Berbère S in first half of the 20th century carried still commonly.

During thousand-year-old IIIe, the costume of these populations is attached to that of Sumer and to its large shawl draped. It perdure to the thousand-year-old IE and the coat of the Israélite S in is an alternative. In Syria and especially in Phénicie, it is variegated blue and red colors, decorated with flowers and rosettes. Starting from thousand-year-old IIe, the underskirt-loincloth takes as a starting point the costume égée N, but also by the Egyptian Shenti, kind of mask-sex cross and raised on the front. The first, embroidered multicoloured wire, goes down to the knees and is draped with the hips forming girdles, second is of light white fabric. The male hairstyle is the Turban mésopotamien or the Calotte sumérienne.

The ladies' garment par excellence remains during two millenia large the shawl draped, full and folded with the Egyptian woman. The women carry a Coiffe, kind of Tiare cylindrical from where share a length enveloping veil reserved to the married women. However, in the surrounding of -1.400 with - 1.200 they seem to wear a clothing inspired of the costume crétois. It is known that the crétois settled in Syria to trade, preserved and propagated the Aegean modes. This time coincides with the apogee of civilization crétoise and its modes are carried as well in Cyclades as in Cyprus. They were adopted without reserve by the phenicians, getting dressed like the elegant ones with Cnossos.

  • Hebrew
Their costume is rather preserving, undoubtedly because of their peregrinations which makes be longer maintained their costume derived from the shawl sumérien. The Bible gives few details on this subject and one does not have an information on their costume at the period of the entry in Canaan. Their religion prohibiting any human representation, it is more the iconography of the people which they côtoyés and which represented them which informs. At the end of the Bronze Age, (corresponding to XVIIIe and XIXe dynasty of the New Egyptian Empire), they carry however large the shawl rolled up several times around the body and retained by a belt, innovation introduced in Mésopotamie by the Hittites, formant Pélerine on the shoulders.

The women, towards -700 to -680, carry the plain and long tunic and a long veil wrapping them to the feet. It seems however that they had the naked head and the discovered face, with a Ruban in the hair. Thus they appear on the low-reliefs of the catch of Lakish by Sennachérib. This contrasts with what into known as later Tertullien in IIIe century with Carthage where it exhorts the Christian women to leave buckled like the Jewish ones.

The Deutéronome severely prohibits to the women the men's wears and reciprocally. The Torah prohibits folded the transparent Egyptian and fulminates the Egyptian effeminate modes.

Certain biblical vestimentary matter regulations recommend the fringes and a cordon-bleu cook to the sides of clothing. The Jews adopt the Greek costume however, carrying the khiton and the himation, but with Pompon S with the angles, mode which is spread elsewhere.

Mountainous regions

They are the areas of mountain or the high plateaus which are the Anatolia, the Cappadoce, the Arménie, the the Caucasus, the Perse, (the Iran) the Turkestan, the Afghanistan and the Balouchistan.

There, towards the thousand-year-old beginning of IIe, the people of the steppes push in front of them other people autochtones and seminomads who settle in the valleys, mainly in Mésopotamie and Chaldée, by successive waves. An empire Hyksos is formed, dominated by an aristocracy Mitani enne, of Babylon with Tyr, including Egypt, and which will last more than one century and half.

It is about this period, towards half of the thousand-year-old second, whom one sees for the first time appearing in this population consisted the interbreeding of the invaders and of invaded, the costume made , whose prototypes were introduced by the populations come from the mountains. Out of cut and bent fabric, it is composed of a tunic with handles.

It seems that actually the tunic was brought in these mountains by the caravans of Sumer, was adopted and improved by the populations autochtones. Those, forced to get dressed warmly, carried it over the underskirt sumérien. Wrapping all the body and adapted to the climate of the plates of Central Asia swept by the winds, it will be the clothing worn by the Mèdes. This tunic is closed on the front, short for the men and long for the women. It is illustrated adherent on the statuary; actually it was carried broad. Large the shawl sumérien was carried over during the cold season, being used as coat, as at older times of Ur and Mari, furnished with a pad.

The women seem to have worn this smock is falling right on the feet, with handles very short, or trailing with flared sleeves arriving at the wrist. It seems that a Jupe of very fine fabric and with folds was carried at the hot season. The serapis of the time gréco-Persian seems to be later on derived about it. The Greeks of minor Asia had borrowed this long fine, full and folded tunic from the Lydien S.

At the Persian , the tunic will be adapted to a sedentary life, with the records of the Court like to the very hot climate, giving more broadth to him, the open and hanging sleeves. It is the Caftan, the candys .

Another major contribution is also the heritage of the mountain populations, the characteristic shoes with bent end, in Cuir, with a heel.

The hairstyles consist of bonnet S of felt. At the first millenium, the Hittites of the two sexes wore this high cylindrical bonnet on round cap or conical relative of the Phrygian cap, to which the women added a veil to the top that they could bring back on the face. This conical bonnet seems to have been of use at the populations not sumero-akkadiennes.

The hair, and beard it for the men, curly, are covered at Persians by a round bonnet, with strips during each side also being used as mentonnière. The kings carry the Tiare, similar to the current bonnet of the Pope S, or a crenelated crown. The braid, outgoing of the tiara seems to have been of ritual use before becoming a fashion, is to be brought closer to the hairpiece of use in the children in Egypt, and with that real, of the Greek children, like with the ritual love-locks of the crétoises.

Steppe

The people come from the steppes, Huns, Scythian, Alains and Sarmates carried the typical clothing of leather and skins of the riders: the tunic, the long pants , generally of the boot S being used as Legging S , and the Hat of fur or felt. These people exerted a considerable influence on those with which they came into contact and which generally carried a dress. It is a war and hunting gear. In the iconography, the Scythians for example are always seen with the long hair and of long moustache. Polybe, in -179, announced their coats of mail and their conical Casque S and Ammien Marcellin at the 4th century of our era reports that this type of costume was always of setting among these people. It describes them carrying a Casaque of skins of Rat S bent together on a tunic of flax, the covered head of a helmet or a bonnet rejected behind and skins of goat around their legs. Their shoes, without form, made to ride a horse, did not enable them to go.

The pants are then an absolute innovation in the ancient world, of Europe in China.

Their ornaments consisted of plates of metal, engraved or decorated in pushed back , bent on clothing by wire passing in small holes envisaged for this purpose. It is thought that this type of ornament is at the origin of the decorations bent on the fabrics, the brackets .

The costume of the ancient world

See also: the costume of the ancient world

Egypt

See also: Costume in ancient Egypt

The Egyptian costume is primarily draped and in naturally white flax.

Crete

See also: Costume of ancient Crete

The costume of the women is the only one of the Mediterranean has to be crossed and bent, it comprises a tight Corsage with the size, sometimes emphasizing the naked centres above and of a puffing out Jupe. The men wear superimposed loincloths.

The traditional costume in the Mediterranean world

The costume of the Romans will be primarily the same one as that of the Greeks from which it will be borrowed, without great differences; only the names of the parts of the costumes will change, Latin will adopt moreover certain vestimentary practices where they will settle in the empire, like the cap and the braies of Gallic (bands of skin or fabric rolled up around the legs).
  • the Greek costume
The female costume par excellence is the Péplos , outerwear worn on the chiton (or khiton) which is a underwear, runs most of the time but also being able to be carried long, Rectangle of fabric, generally of Laine, bent on a side and maintained on the shoulders by Fibule S. the péplos is on the contrary a vast rectangle not-bent but also draped, maintained on the shoulders by fibules or button S and by a with the size girdles. It can comprise a simple or double fold, as well in front of as behind, according to the way of draping it. Without belt nor buttons or fibules, it is used then as coat. There exists however a coat used by the two sexes called himation , another draped fabric rectangle.

The male chiton is the same one as that of the women. It is also used as underwear but is carried shorter than that of the women, stopping with the knees. When it is attached only on one shoulder using a fibule, it constitutes the working clothes; it is called then the exomide . It was the basic clothing of the Dorien S. the young men, the warriors, carry it very short. The old ones, the kings, the Aède S, the philosophers carried it long; it was then the tunic talaire or chiton talaire or poderis .

The Chlamyde is a coat related exclusively by the men, rectangle from approximately 2 Mr. to 1m, attached by a fibule under the chin and forming a kind of hood by behind being able to be folded back on the head. Originating in Thessalie, it is carried mainly by the riders. Youth, the philosophers often carried only the himation without chiton.

To obtain the famous one folded and embossing, one folded with the nail the flax or one soaked it in a starch paste or Amidon to then twist it by letting it dry and bleach with the sun.

The Sandal ( crepida ), was common to both sexes. The Cothurne S were the shoes of the actors, and the endromides of the Bottine S laced on the front.

The Coiffure S of the women were both stringcourse X brought back in Chignon on the nape of the neck maintained by a ribbon, the tœnia ; this type of hairstyle is some overcome times of a Diadème. The hair is sometimes enclosed in a Foulard. The will kalyptra is the veil which goes to the countryside and which is often surmounted by a Straw hat, the tholicu , hairstyle that one finds for example on the statuettes of TANAGRA. The men wear a straw or felt hat, the pétasos , in the countryside. Usually their hair is maintained by a leather thin strap letting the wicks escape.

  • the Roman costume

See also: Costume of ancient Rome

The Toge is the central part of the Roman costume.

External contributions

The provinces of the Roman Empire provide emperors and the Roman mode changes under their influence: it integrates foreign parts of Vêtement S into the Latin world. Thus, the emperor Caracalla (168 - 217) popularizes the port of the Gallic coat from where it draws his nickname.

Starting from the middle of the 3rd century, the Roman costume “barbarise” gradually because of the increasing part which in particular the German ones in the army play.

The Byzantine costume

In 552, two monks byzantiens about Saint Basile bring back cocoons of bombyx and make discover the Soie what will revolutionize clothing. The fabric is so expensive that the width of clothing is some reduced what supports the appearance of ornaments (invaluable stone incrustation, reason).

The Mérovingiens and the Carolingien S carry a Tunique short and practical for the horse, the gonelle (or gonne ); even if the long costumes always exist. The girdles is an important component because clothing does not have a pockets and they are thus used to suspend a Aumônière which contains money, scissors, etc

The wellbeing increases, of new goods are available and even if the common peoples do not wear same clothing yet, the costume evolves/moves at least in its ornament and the quality of the fabrics.

The men and the women carry indifferently the dress. It is rather short for the men safe for the monks.

The Chaussure S are known as with the Poulaine , shoes with frayed point.

It is starting from half of the 14th century that the costume of the man and the woman start with différencier.
To the man, a tight tunic goes a shirt under a Pourpoint and Chausse S sticking as well as a coat open on the front which threads by the tête.
The woman carries a dress made up of a Corsage and a Jupe. The handles of the blouse if are adjusted with the wrist, that they are recousues each ares day the threading. They carry also Chausse s.
The two sexes carry a tight Tunique in Sous-vêtement to very the peau.
The point of the shoes lengthens more and more at the point to block walk sometimes.

Among common peoples, the man carries a Blouse, fit and of the braies threaded in the boots. The woman wears a shirt, a long tunic, fit and a coat with Capuchon.

The costume of in Europe

Middle of the 14th century until the middle of the 17th century, the costume does not have only one role of clothing but it is there too to transform the appearance by means of artifices. Moreover, the court dress will become complicated with time (see the costumes of the Renaissance).
Moreover, it diversifies according to the areas.

The costumes for the two sexes are adjusted, buttoned or laced. The Chapeau X become extravagant amorçant the future Hennin at the woman.

The Italian wars also make discover the Renaissance costume and this Italian fashion especially will influence the matters and the ornaments. This tendency gains all Europe bringing of novel modes: flexible, machine-made lines opened out, broad handles, and for the men the flat hat with feathers.
Then following the Battle of Pavia, it is the Spain which imposes its sober and strict influences.

At the 15th century, the industry of the textile is in full rise, in particular in Italy.
At the 16th century, the first fashion magazines and they appear headstock of France , of the figurines equipped that the ladies are exchanged to know the mode.

The male costume

The man carries a short Pourpoint, grinding with a collar high. With its size, it is maintained by a girdles. It carries in lower part a shirt to long sleeves and braies short. The handles of the pourpoint are split on the level of the front armlever what makes it possible to show the underwears ( mode of burst the ) to the handles broad and puffing out. The shoulders, the chest and the back are stuffed. On the front it raises Broderie S.
The pourpoint is sometimes furnished with a factitious prominent paunch, the panseron .
Generally, the legs are not covered that of Sticking rudimentary consistent in the meeting of the Top-of-fit by a often prominent Braguette because being used as pocket. The whole supplements by Bas in knitting of soie.
Over, the man carries, either long a filled dress with long sleeves or trailing named Houppelande , or a chasuble bent with slits called sluice .
They have the short hair because of the high collars. They relate to their head of the Toque S from where often hangs a scarf or Chaperon S (they are cap S with a pèlerine with long a Cornette).

The female costume

The woman carries long dresses, grinding, rather low-necked, falling to the ground and whose girdles goes up high under the centres.
The Corsage is indented. The women must carry what one calls the tassel , which hiding place the intimate shirt. On these dresses, on the level of the wrists, they carried bombard , which are wheels falling down on the hands. These bombard are sometimes replaced by tippets , which are long decorative bands.
On the dress, slits are also conspicuous to slip the hands there and sometimes one of the collar drawn up behind the head in Médicis ( strawberry ).
Over, the woman revêt a Surcot makes Brocart bordered of Fourrure. This surcot will become a major clothing in the official behaviors.
The Coiffure goes behind to release the face. The face is raised by a depilation eyebrows in order to emphasizes the face. The hair is gone down again on the temples by two Chignon S on which a Résille is posed. On the latter, a veil named is posed the huve or the Hennin . To leave, the woman covers herself with a veil or a cap. Only the maidservants go naked head. The cap goes behind.

Shoes

The court gentlemen carry shoes to foot of bear or nozzle of duck which is shoes very open to broad square end whose end could reach 15 cm broad. They are fixed on the instep with a lanière.
Elegant Italian carried strange Soulier S raised by very high shoes, the bottles of wine . The high base placed under the plant of the foot could reach fifty two centimetres and it did not allow those which carried them to only go, they were to be obligatorily pressed on the shoulders of two maidservants being held on each side of them. These bottles of wine will not be adopted in France and was prohibited very quickly in Italy, because considered to be unaesthetic and little commodes.
From Italy always, another fashion adopted in France had been imposed at the beginning of the 16th century: the Slipper . Term of Italian origin pantofla indicating an object out of cork; almost without district (side postpones), it constituted a new element of comfort. Its lightness, its facility of use made an excellent shoe of apartment of it, especially used by the femmes.
The fashion of the burst , then in full rise for the costume, went down to the shoe, often in Satin or Velours. These Chaussures bore the name of escafignons , known as also eschapfins which comes from Italy under the name of scapa , word which always nowadays indicates in Italy the shoes. Let us escafignons, therefore, were gashed on the empeigne (the front) to let see through burst, the fabric invaluable of white bottoms or couleurs.
The boot S out of leather or deer always went while the elegant gashed fabric boots (burst) were used at the Court by the lords. They did not exceed, in height, the medium of the jambe.
The people, it, always fitted very rustic wood Sabot S or wooden-soled shoes (of Latin gallica ) maintained by supports, shoes with wood sole of which the upper part is out of leather. He also fitted the estival ones which is flexible and light leather boots. The term estival comes from bottom Latin aestivaleus , relating to the summer: it is thus well about a light shoe carried in summer.
The peasants carried houses which are Guêtre S of leather split from one end to another closed with loops and belts, which was so long and difficult that Rabelais called them boots of patience . They carried also Sandale S which are made out of leather, wood or cord, of the boots which are in fact of the light shoes and convenient which resembles to mistake there with our slippers of today.

In the large country of Europe in short

  • In Spain: Spain, at the 16th century is a European, strong great power of its discoveries extraordinary in America. Gold, the money and the pearls flow on clothing becoming increasingly extravagant. A series of laws then sees the day towards 1500, limiting excesses. The Spanish fashion, very influential, is carried by Charles Quint large king d' Espagne.
    This fashion is sober and in the majority of the cases, of black color. The women carry dresses in pyramid to collar going up and the stuffed shoulders. The men carry the sword to the side.
  • In Castille, the queen Jeanne of Portugal, then enclosure, tries to hide its pregnancy and launches the fashion of the Jupe S armed with circles of green snap ring, the verdugo which will become the Vertugadin in France. It can have the shape of bell or barrel.
  • the French costume is quickly touched by the Spanish fashion which wants to be sober, simple, and of generally black color. The ropa traditional clothing of Spain makes fury among noble French. The fashion of the burst originating in Germany, and which consists with rapiécer of small fabric fabrics on clothing touches also France. One can as note as, following the requirements of François 1st, the male court is seen in the obligation to cut the hair short.
  • In Italy, the fashion little touched by the Gothic period is influenced by Spain and the fashion of the burst . In spite of the black, it keeps traditional vestimentary elements like the red dresses or the high Venetian shoes. One can as notice as the Italian fashion influences in particular the behind drawn and sober hairstyles which are opposed to the more complicated Scandinavian hairstyles with a veil recovering them. The handles also full and are bordered of fur while north remains more sober with tight sleeves.
  • the England is a fashion a little with share although influenced by Spain (but more tardily). Laces and the strawberry S flow. The Chapeau style Robin of Wood is in vogue.
  • In the Germanic countries spreads the fashion of the Top-of-fit puffing out.

Some definitions

  • Pourpoint : Adjusted clothing of man, who covered the body of the neck to the belt.
  • Chasuble (homonymy) : Clothing having the shape of a coat without handle.
  • Hat : Hairstyle without edges, with the cylindrical forms.
  • Hood : Cap with long point, carried by the men.
  • Pèlerine : Ladies' garment, covering the shoulders and the chest.
  • Cornet : Hairstyle what carries certain catholic nuns.
  • Notch : Part indented, dug or notched at the edge.
  • Surcot : Wrap top, range with the Middle Ages by the men like the women.
  • Brocart : Pack stitched silk, of gold or money.

The costume at the 17th century in Europe

See also: Costume at the XVIIe century

It is the France which influences the mode Great century.

The costume at the 18th century in Europe

See also: Costume at the XVIIIe century

The female costume is composed of various style of dresses:

  • the beating Dress;
  • the dress with Polish the whose skirt has three wheels on circular Paniers;
  • the Dress with the Frenchwoman (universal term, but which has also equivalents: contouche in German, andrienne in Italian, sack-dress in English. One said formerly sacque in France, but the term was lost) with ous without Plis Watteau (or in Watteau) and with a Pièce of stomach or Compères according to the time;
  • the Dress with English the, a dress with blouse adjusted, puffing out sleeves, flange and vertugadin broader than the shoulders.

The skirts of the dresses can go with a Pet the air or Paniers (there exists a great number of baskets during the 18th century, among which baskets of court, considerations or baskets with the Jansenist).
The blouse when with him is adjusted with a Corps with whales or whale (ancestor of the Corset), said also more simply the body even a white Corset.

The tops of ladies' garments comprises the caraco, the Casaquin, the Pierrot, the Juste, called Mantelet in Quebec.

The men carry the Tricorne to Switzerland or sometimes a flat hat on broad board known as to Pennsylvania .

It is the mode Perruque S powdered, white dye, flies and red make-up on the knobs and the lips.

The costume in Europe of the Revolution at 1914

See also: Mode at the XIXe century, Mode at the XXe century, fashion in 1900

The Révolution releases the costumes which are directed towards more simplicité.
The Sans-culotte refuse to carry Bas and are thus in pants and short jacket ( Carmagnole ).

The elegant ones are called the incredible , they wear clothes to square sides and the elegant ones, the marvellous wear long low-necked dresses whose ribbon marks the size under the arms.

Under the impulse of Napoleon i the fashion passes to the imitation of the Antiquité. While the pants of British linen room of origin makes its appearance.

Great Britain influences the fashion with elements like the spencer, the Redingote, the Anglomanie, Brummell.

At the beginning of the 19th century the first clothes shops at reduced price appear.

The pants definitively replaced the breeches and bottoms for the men. And the women give the belt to the size. The jewel is with the mode of the Médaillon where portrait or currency hides and takes a sentimental value then.

Charles Frederic Worth is pointed out and launched the Haute couture. Whereas about at the same time Oscar Levi Strauss invents the Blue-jeans .

If the life with the great outdoors develops in particular with the sea bathings, the behavior of the women is still under the reign of the Corset and the Crinoline which will become Tournure which will become itself dress with a train (symbol of the Belle Time).

With the Beautiful Time, it is the fashion of the Moustache S and of the Barbe S for the men who must have a perfect fold, to be done they sleep with a fixed-moustache . The women must have a silouhette in S thanks to a Corset or a Guêpière aiming at emphasizing the chest and accentuate the camber. The range S are in vogue.
It is the appearance of the first coats of Fourrure, the apogee of the Haut-de-forme, and the leg-of-mutton sleeves and the Chapeau X bulky for the women.

As of the years 1910, the female silouhette lengthens again but the bottom of the skirts is blocked obliging the women to take small steps. Paul Poiret removes the Corset and simplifies the female Vêtement. The advent of the complete revolutionizes the male fashion.

The First World War paralyzes the world of the mode but brings more comfortable Sous-vêtement S. The work of the women and the sport transform clothing. The industrialization and the changes of mode make evolve/move clothing at the point to leave the framework of the history of the costume to enter the Histoire of the mode.

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