Growing

History

The legend wants that it is about an invented pastry making with Vienna to celebrate the end of the second head office of Vienna by the Othoman troops which made the seat of the city (1683), from where the term of viennoisery used to qualify this type of preparation. Whereas the enemy decided to tackle the night in order not to point out itself, the bakers Vienneses, raised before the paddle gave alarm. It is for immortaliser this victory that it was allowed to them to make the “Hörnchen” ( small horn in German) with its form which points out the symbol of the Othoman flag.

Another version exists and allots the invention of the crescent, always in 1683 with a café owner of Vienna, named " Kolschitsky" , which having recovered coffee bags left by the Turks at the time of their rapid departure, would have had the idea to be used this coffee accompanied by a pastry making in form as crescent in remembering the departure the occupant.

It is Marie-Antoinette of Austria, originating in Vienna, which officially introduced and popularized the crescent in France starting from 1770. However the crescent already seems to have existed in quite front France, since in the inventory of the French culinary inheritance carried out by the National center of the arts of cooking one discovers the mention of “forty cakes while growing” been used at the time of a banquet offered by the queen as France in 1549 to Paris. It may be that the intention was then to commemorate alliance a few decades before of François I {{er}} with the Large Turk.

Today, the crescent is a traditional element of the French breakfast. Its laminated current version made its real appearance only at the beginning of the 20th century (although a first presence was attested towards 1860) and waited the years 1920 to meet success.

The dieticians recommend to moderate of it consumption because of its important content of lipids, because it comprises fat contents 50% in its receipt.

Manufacture

The crescent was manufactured at the beginning with a paste close to that of the brioche, but the taste of the public for the quite crusty crescent will lead to the wire of time to make him use a paste closer to the puff pastry . The ultimate term of this process will be the increasing with the butter , whose rectified form makes that it does not have any more a “crescent” but the name and the process of rolling.

As for the bread, the crescent is cooked ideally in a hearth which seizes the paste and crusty irresistible gives him which, for the crescent, is its true nobility and quality stamp. With the ventilated furnaces with minutée cooking, one attends a homogenization which, according to the chief Yves Camdeborde, “does not hold any more account of the quantity of yeast nor of the various flours” and “removes all the human key, the personality and know-how, the glance of the craftsman. ”

There are on the whole “fifty parameters to control to make a good growing” according to the chief-pastrycook Christophe Felder of which the “quality of the flour and butter used, (...) the time of fermentation of the paste, the way of incorporating butter, of working the crescent, the heat of the furnace, duration of cooking…”

Today, low profitability on this product, the lack of qualified time and labor, lead many craftsmen bakers and hotel to manufacture their crescents containing frozen pastes that it is enough for them to make defrost and to make raise before passing the crescents to the furnace.

How to consider a good increasing

A good growing must have an aspect dodu, worked like a quarter of the moon, it must have a well gilded crust and a beautiful fair color. The horns must be able to be stretched while letting appear a crumb alveolate, ventilated, flexible, almost brilliant, and show laminated crusty. The flange must return the front of course, ready to be taken off.

It must melt in mouth and to the taste, it must have a balance between the taste of butter and the flavors of wheat, with a small taste of malt and a light acidity.

The most current defects

Current aspects of the bad crescents:

not of flaky preparation;
: use of butter poor;
yellow color: use of butter aromatized with vanilla;
color blanchâtre: bad cooking;
sweetened savor: use of too much sugar to hide the mediocrity of the ingredients;
uniformly soft: cooking in a furnace ventilated badly regulated or too cold;
flat, without relief, risen, pasty or compact;
dry outside, rubbery inside;
émiette too easily and presents broad holes.

Frozen

Many French like the fresh crescents left the furnace, but hardly have eagerness to go to seek some with the jump of the bed. The company Danone created for this reason of the crescents to roll and to cook oneself with the furnace, the Danerolles , but this crescent missed flaky preparation, was quickly been sulky, and the product disappeared.

Today (2007), of the chains of frozen propose to the private individuals bags crescents frozen to cook, which yield it of nothing to those certain bakers… or in any case final of cooking.

Receipt

Ingredients

For 25 crescents approximately:

flour of corn (standard 45): 500 G
flour of corn (standard 55): 500 G
butter: 300 to 500 G
dried milk: 60 G
water: 0,550 L
sugar: 50 G
yeast: 30 G
salt: 10 G
(improving: 10 G)

Preparation

To prepare the leaven by watering yeast in 1 tepid water DLL (=0,1 liter).
To add then 150 G of flour (=0,250 liter).
To mix.
To cover with a linen.
To let rest in a fresh part (15 ~ 18°C) during approximately 12 hours.

To then put in a salad bowl 450 G of flour (=0,750 liter), salt, sugar, the milk and 1dl (=0,1 liter) of tepid water.
To add the leaven of the day before.
To amalgamate the whole and to knead until the paste is flexible and smooth.
To form a ball.
To cover with a linen.
To let raise during two hours in a moderate place.
To make fall down paste and put it at the refrigerator during at least 3 hours.
To spread out the paste cooled in rectangle over the farinée table.
To place butter in the medium.
To fold up the paste into three.
To lengthen it with the rolling pin and to fold into four.
To lengthen again and fold into three.
To give to the refrigerator 30 minutes.
To then spread out the paste in a great square over the farinée table.
To cut three bands and to cross in each regular triangle.
To roll these triangles while starting with the base.
To pose the crescents on a dry plate.
to curve Them slightly.
to paint Them with beaten egg.
To cover with a linen then, to let raise 1 hour before charging.
To pass by again a blow of gilding.
To make cook the crescents in the middle of the furnace preheated with thermostat 8 (240°C) during 5 minutes.
To lower the temperature of the furnace to thermostat 7 (200°C) and to continue cooking still 15 minutes.
To put the crescents finally to be cooled on a grid.

See too

Receipts of pastry making

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