Great Breakage

The Grande Breakage is more the high summit of the Massif of Vanoise, in the French Alps, and of the department of the Savoy.

The northern face of the top is very stiff.

History

The first rise of the great breakage was carried out on August 8th, 1860 by W. Mathews, Mr. Croz, E. Favre. At that time, the material specific to the Alpinisme (Ice axe and Cramps) did not exist. They had then to cut 1100 steps including 800 with the Hache to come to end from this slope from ice.

July 14th, 1892, a cord of soldiers is lost in the fog and is found on slopes much stiffer. It is then the accident. Two of the four soldiers die and it is second lieutenant A. Messimy which will seek the helps.

Two years later, on August 23rd, 1894, this last, accompanied by J.J. White, will turn over on the top to come to end from another way from rise which now bears the name of Couloir Messimy and which leads to the Matthews point.

The small northern face or northern face of right-hand side will be overcome by the Puiseux brothers and the guide Joseph Amiez, on August 6th, 1887. It should be noted that they passed by the rocky outcrop and not by the slope of ice.

The northern face direct, known as corridor of the Italians was opened by A. Bonacossa and L. Binaghi, on August 6th, 1933. Currently, she is regarded as a major way in ice in Vanoise.

Ways of rise

Large corridors: PD+, 400 m with 40-45° and some photographs
Matthews Point by the Messimy corridor: AD, 400 m with 50°
Small northern face: AD, 600m with 40-45°
the corridor of Italian: D, 800m with 55-60°

Internal bonds

Close Summits

Needle of Vanoise (2796 m)
Point and Aiguille of Épéna (3421 m)

External bonds

Geology of the Great Breakage

Random links: