Gaston Rébuffat

Gaston Rébuffat (born the May 7th 1921 with Marseilles and dead on June 1st 1985) was a Alpiniste French, member in particular of French forwarding to the Annapurna.

Biography

Gaston Rébuffat discovers the climbing in the Calanques of Marseilles, then at 16 years it is registered with the CIF (section High Provence) where it discovers the high mountain and becomes acquainted with Henri Moulin whom it regards as “his big brother of the alpinism”. He discovers then the the Alps and the solid mass of the Mont Blanc which becomes its garden of plays.

“During years, while I lived Marseilles, I dreamed of rises. Each winter, I waited July impatiently. Lastly, it was the departure for Ailefroide or Chamonix. I spent a few days on the summits, then, one year still, it was necessary me to wait. Then, a day, deciding to live in mountain, I soothsayers guide. ”

In 1940, it engages with Jeunesse and Montagne where it meets Lionel Terray with which it will become friendly. It is in the Center School Youth and Mountain of the Valgaudemar that the passion of the mountains is anchored deeply in him. He moves then for Chamonix where he works in the farm of his friend Lionel Terray.

In 1942, Gaston Rébuffat makes a success of his patent of Guide of high mountain in spite of its young age (21 years whereas the necessary age was 23 years). It then continues its activity of monitor with Jeunesse and Montagne, and in 1944 becomes instructor with the National school of Alpinism, like with the Military academy of high mountain. In June 1945, Gaston Rébuffat integrates prestigious the Compagnie of the guides of Chamonix under the supervision of Alfred Couttet. It becomes the third " then; étranger" company, after Roger Clipping-Rock and Edouard Frendo, whereas, traditionally, it was necessary to be born in the valley to enter there.

“I taken possession of my trade of guide (...) It seemed me to become completely the captain of my existence. ”

“I include/understand best the reason which pushes us towards the great ways and the ultimate first: not to be satisfied to put the feet in the traces dug by the effort of the pioneers. To be worthy of the heritage. ”

One year before its death, in 1984, it is decorated Officer of the Legion of Honor.

Sporting prize list

First rise of the integral South-western edge of the Aiguille of the Pilgrims (1943)
Second rise of the Frendo spur to the Aiguille of the South (1943)
First rise of the edge Is Pic of Rock (1944)
First rise of the North-western face of the Grand Peak of Belledonne (1944)
Second rise of the Walker spur to the Grandes Jorasses (1945)
First rise of the Northern face of the Dent of the Shark (1945)
Fourth rise of the Croz spur to the Grandes Jorasses (1947)
First rise of the Southern face Needle of the South (1956)
Fourth rise of the Bonatti pillar to the Thick (1961)

Several of these rises were carried out with Lionel Terray, Edouard Frendo or the violoncellist and humorist Maurice Baquet.

Gaston Rébuffat took part in the first ascencion of the Annapurna in 1950 with, inter alia, Jean Couzy, Lionel Terray, Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, Marcel Ichac, Marcel Schatz, Jacques Oudot and Francis de Noyelle. This exploit will remain a difficult stage of its life. It did not go at the top, but, with Terray, it helped Lachenal and Herzog in perdition. Like Lachenal, and contrary in Herzog, it did not feel invested any patriotic mission nor mystic by climbing this top.

Works of Gaston Rébuffat

Books

the track of the summits , Spes Editions, 1961.
Creeks , with Gabriel-M. Olive, Arthaud Editions, Collection Beautiful Pages.
the mountain apprentice , Vasco Editions, Collection High winds
Stars and storms , Arthaud Editions, 1954.
Of Mont Blanc in the Himalayas , Arthaud Editions, Collection Beautiful Pages.
Snow and Roc , Editions Hatchet
Mont Blanc, fairy-like garden , Guerin Editions, where it describes and transmits its passion for the Mountain and the solid mass of Mont Blanc
Cervin, exemplary summit
the Mountain is my field, Editions Hoëbecke, Retour collection to the mountain 1994.
the solid mass of Mont Blanc - the 100 more beautiful races , Editions Denoël, 1973.
the Pyrenees (the 100 more beautiful races and excursions , Editions Denoel, 1976.

Films

Flames of Stones turned in 1953.
Stars and Tempêtes realized in 1955 by Gaston Rébuffat, images of Georges Tairraz with Maurice Bucket. Color film, Grand Prix of the festival of Thirty.
gained horizons realized in 1961 by Gaston Rébuffat, images of Georges Tairraz and Pierre Tairraz. Color film, Grand Prix of the 10th international festival of film of mountain and exploration of Thirty, in Italy.
Between Ground and Sky realized in 1974 per Gaston Rébuffat.

See too

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