The embroidery is a Art of Décoration of the fabric S which consists in adding on a fabric a flat reason or in made wire relief.
One can divide it into three big classes:
Techniques
The counted point (or not of cross)
It is a question of reproducing the drawing of a grid (" the diagramme") on a fabric with regular screen (cheesecloth of flax, of Cotton, groundwork or Helped).the beginners generally prefer a fabric helped to start, because it offers the most regular screen parmis the other fabrics.
the fabrics helped are available several colors, most common being the white and the unbleached one, but they exist also varied colors. Certain marks propose also fabrics pre-printed to carry out the point of crosses, or pre-printed to act basic as embroidery in order to fill white space (small stars, the moons, bear cubs, etc…)
the flax when for him is reserved to the experienced embroiderers, because it offers the least regular screen. It is found mainly brownish color.
For great work , a framework of embroidery will be an asset, maintaining the fabric tended in order to keep a quality and a constant tension.
One can also embroider on standard fabrics , one will help oneself then of a fabric " Car-fils" who reproduces a light screen. One fixes it on fabrics or one sticks it using an adhesive in bomb for fabrics. Once the finished embroidery, one draws on vertical and horizontal wire from the fabric " Car-fils" for extracting some. The embroidery is then regular on a very fine fabric which is clothing.
to embroider the point of cross , one has crushed cotton, generally composed of 6 wire. The cotton wooden door-latches are called leas and comprise 8 meters of wire in general. More than 500 colors are available and certain special effects, like the effect light (brilliant wire) and the effect variation (variation of color along the wire to create an effect) existentent
the principal marks whose DMC and Anchor, they propose a whole wire range and kits to be embroidered, at the point of cross or other.
Of many books and magazines propose diagrams which it is enough to reproduce. The kits contain the diagram, the fabric, wire and the needle. The kits generally do not contain all wire, it is necessary to be provided in additional leas. But at least each color is contained in the kit, in more or less great quantity
The small point
A painted fabric with broad grid is filled with small points, of points of cross or half-time to fill the painted grid and to become a table. Male pastime attested in the British navy.
The point of cross
Very widespread in the whole world, not in the shape of “X”, embroidered according to a model in counted point, or on a pre-printed fabric.There exist two methods:
- the traditional one where each cross is formed one after the other: xxx xx xxxx for example.
- Danish where one embroiders initially half-time lower part with the outward journey and the half-time ones of the top to the return to form the crosses: /// // //// with the outward journey then \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ with the return, which gives the same result: xxx xx xxxx.
Painting with the needle
The embroidery with the encroaching past imitates painting with the watercolour (China, Europe).The purpose of this technique of embroidery originating in the Far East is to reproduce subjects - primarily botanical and animalist, even mythological - with the highhest degree of accuracy; for that purpose, the embroidering-machines and embroiderers have recourse to the technique of the single wire. The use of only one bit, very often of Silk, implies a definitely higher workload. The alternatives of techniques are numerous but one of most spectacular undoubtedly remains the embroidery “doubles face” always carried out in China. Today, it counts several varieties: the embroidery on only one side, the embroidery having on each side the same drawings and colors, the embroidery with the drawings and colors different on the two sides…
The embroidery Xiang, one of the most famous craft industries of the province of Hunan, appears among the four famous schools of this artisanal art in China, with the school of Known (Suzhou, province of Jiangsu), that of Yue (province of Guangdong) and that of Shu (province of Sichuan). This form of painting to the needle implies that the two faces are strictly identical from where a completely reversible work. All subtlety is due to art to hide the starting points and other nodes which in normal weather are always more or less visible with the back of the work.
In occident painting with the needle knows a significant renewed interest near the general public. In Paris, the “Lesage house”, heiress of the tradition of French embroidery, teach this technique with the private individuals as well as the school of embroidery " Beautiful arts of the fil" who exempts a vocational training and diplomant.
Days
The days which subdivide in days with drawn wire and days with tight wire . The techniques many and are particularly preserved in Central Europe.For the second technique Embroidery Hardanger coming from the Northern Europe.
Blackwork
With 16th and 17th centuries of the fabrics of white flax were embroidered with black Soie. Regular and reversible reasons, these fabrics were used for the clothes industry of the Vêtement S.Today generally on cheesecloth this embroidery is used to decorate small works or more complicated embroideries while exploiting the thickness of wire used.
Embroidery on tulle
Imitation of the Lace to the needle, the reasons are encircled at the point of recovery then rebrodés at the point of bumblebee or of festoon, they are connected between them by “wheels” or “spiders”, then the bottom is cut out to let appear only the figures which could be filled as a preliminary.This embroidery is carried out in white wire on cotton tulle, it is used still today to embroider the caps of the traditional costumes, in particular in Brittany.
Embroidery rebirth or Richelieu
On fabric of flax or cotton, figures at the festooned edge are connected between them by supports, then the fabric is cut out.In the Renaissance embroidery the supports are simple, in embroidery Richelieu, they are decorated barbs.
The Indian embroidery Aari
The Aari technique is used by Western originators for their creations of accessories and clothing.The Aari embroidery is practiced with a framework out of wooden, being able to adapt to any length of fabric. This concept of embroidery frame evolved/moved starting from the Indian bed Khatia , still used in the rural regions.
The reasons are traced directly on fabric. They generally organize around a great central figurative reason Nadir Shahi Booti .
Qualities
This technique can be also a déstressant Loisir.The embroidery can be used to learn the symmetry S, the scale S in elementary mathematics of level.
The embroidery is also an object of study for the folklorists and the historians of the Art, who see there one of the identity independent factors of the old provinces since the XIXe century. It is also an object of collection, very required since the beginning of the XXe century.
Gallery
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